Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm in the process of buying my 1st v35! Very exciting times, and it will be quite a step up from my R31.

The car is currently undergoing its RWC and one of the items needed is new brakes all round.

Any suggestions on what work well with the skyline? Any personal preferences? I'm only using the car as a daily so I dont need anything stupid or excessive or expensive.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420689-what-brake-pads-do-you-use/
Share on other sites

Much better than standard Bendix pads (and only marginally more expensive) are QFM HPX pads - email GSL Motorsport and they will hook you for $79 per axle. http://www.gslrallysport.com/

Much better than standard Bendix pads (and only marginally more expensive) are QFM HPX pads - email GSL Motorsport and they will hook you for $79 per axle. http://www.gslrallysport.com/

I thought that they were far more exxy than that. Might order a set in a few weeks. :)

EBC red stuff pads are great too

Overkill for general street use. No point really unless you've got 250rwkw everyday on the street, or you're tracking the car.

Don't get me wrong, I've got them on the front now and IMO, not worth it for daily driving.

I've got EBC redstuff front & rear, and I'm very happy with them. I will be doing numerous events in the car, hence the pad choice. That said, I've never braked hard on the street and though "shit - the brakes are too good, I should have bought cheaper pads" - so I don't agree with the "overkill for street use" comments.

Overkill for street use is because if the pads are designed for hard use, the pad will be harsh and increase rotor wear on a daily car, as the pad doesn't get up to temp.

QFM HPX is the go. Order fronts and rears and get free shipping from gsl rally sport.

Overkill for street use is because if the pads are designed for hard use, the pad will be harsh and increase rotor wear on a daily car, as the pad doesn't get up to temp.

QFM HPX is the go. Order fronts and rears and get free shipping from gsl rally sport.

Eggs-zachary!

On the street, you want decent stopping power and a pad that doesn't dust up a lot. That's it really. If you're driving hard on the street, take it to a track.

Yep, as pointed out, you don't want pads that take ages to heat up before they are effective, you don't really want HEAPS of brake dust on a street car, and most inportantly of all (as mentioned) most race-suited pads will rip the shit out of your rotors - who want to change rotors every 6 months?

Go with the HPXs - you won't be sorry! I have run them on my S15, R34 and V35 and love them - especially for the price.

Yep, as pointed out, you don't want pads that take ages to heat up before they are effective, you don't really want HEAPS of brake dust on a street car, and most inportantly of all (as mentioned) most race-suited pads will rip the shit out of your rotors - who want to change rotors every 6 months?

Go with the HPXs - you won't be sorry! I have run them on my S15, R34 and V35 and love them - especially for the price.

The only reason that I didn't go with these was because I could only find them for $150+ a pair. That's when I thought, I've used EBC red stuff before, might as well stick with that.

HPX for that price. Shall purchase when I need new pads!

how's the brake dust with the HPX's? i'm guessing they're a bit dusty during bed in period but what are they like after that? might consider them next time i need pads also. Even though the EBC pads do a great job.

Remsa pads; also available through GSLRallysport are excellent.

​Dustier than QFM HPX, but apparently GSL were phasing out the HPX in favour of the Remsa's as their "Go to" pad.

Sits squarely between the HPX & AR1M pads for heat range, but not hard on rotors or noisy.

Around $90 per end.

They advertise them as being dust free, but they are not. In fact it is impossible to be dust free if you are grinding away microscopic amounts of metal every time you brake. But I find them to be pretty good on brake dust - significantly less than the Ferodo DS 2500s I used to run. Definitely happy overall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...