Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I think i have a blown turbo on my 03, 250 rx t . It has 95k on the clock and its stock other than a turbo back exhaust system.

This afternoon i could not start the car, a cpl of tries later it did start but something was wrong. It was running very poor and i could smell oil burning and it would deny to rev above 3000. I just wanted to get an idea of you guys before i call a mechanic in to tell me what it is and how much it would cost to fix it.

Similar posts were made by fellow stagea owners and there were some nasty numbers quoted.

So any advice will be most appreciated.

I would have expected the turbo to last more than 100k kms especially if its left stock, but oh well i think sh*t happens....

There is also another problem that i would like to mention. Recently when i brake it feels like the disks need machining but the funny thing is i do not feel it on the brake but on the gear knob instead.

one mechanic told me that it could be the front lower control arms which i purchased from Japan, then another mechanic told me that the arms were ok but the prob is from the diff mounting bush. Geting confused , took the car to another mechanic and to my surprise he said it wasnt the diff mounting bush either and he could not identify the problem.

Told me that it would be ok and not to worry too much.

But the thing is if i go a bit heavy on the accelerator, it really can be felt even when you are not the driver.

First things first, i think i need to fix the turbo in a most cost efficient way as i m in between jobs at the moment......

Thank you all kindly

Murat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/
Share on other sites

I can do the turbo in Sydney! Looks like the mechs are taking shots in the dark! Did you say it's only under brakes.....if so more than likely when the car arrived here it was driven off the boat with the handbrake on....that being said you should only need the rear rotors machined or replaced.

Btw by the time you finish the turbo with all parts drive in drive out its about $2k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6770070
Share on other sites

Got a friends' mechanic friend coming to have a look at it today just to diagnose the prob. Started the engine again this morning, it was idling sort of ok and was able to move the car a bit, but engine light was on and it was still smoky. Thanks for the input, once i make sure its the turbo, i ll pm you if you dont mind Jetwreck.

Oh and i m in Sydney now, used to be ACT....

Edited by baymanx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6770295
Share on other sites

The mechanic thinks its quite likely the air flow meter, not the turbo... but i really wouldnt mind a nother opinion from someone who really knows a lot about this model.

I live in westmead, i would really appreciate if you could spare some time to have a look at it, i can give you my mobile if i m in your area or close to you. But if its not on your way or close, i will just look for a replacement air flow meter which i would assume should cost a lot cheaper than a turbo..

Cheers

Murat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6770426
Share on other sites

i ll get a brand new afm from nissan and install it.. unfortunately i dont know how to read the error codes even tho i went thru the posts which explain it.

the smoke is dark color more like black than blue or white. But i can certainly smell some oil burning too.

i ll post the results when i get the new afm.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771066
Share on other sites

I dint get an engine light from limp mode.

Or I do but my globe is out :/

I bet your globe has been disconnected. Codes were lodged on the ecu, which means they should bring up the light the next time the car is started.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771068
Share on other sites

i ll get a brand new afm from nissan and install it.. unfortunately i dont know how to read the error codes even tho i went thru the posts which explain it.

the smoke is dark color more like black than blue or white. But i can certainly smell some oil burning too.

i ll post the results when i get the new afm.

Cheers

I had trouble with reading the error codes too. You just need to read through the instructions and try it a couple of times: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11

Here's the code explanation: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12

Once you've had a couple of goes you'll get it. Makes it a lot easier to fix once you know whats going on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771099
Share on other sites

I had trouble with reading the error codes too. You just need to read through the instructions and try it a couple of times: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11

Here's the code explanation: http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12

Once you've had a couple of goes you'll get it. Makes it a lot easier to fix once you know whats going on.

+1.

Once you've had a couple of goes; it gets easier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771109
Share on other sites

ok i tried this a few times and it was unsuccessfull. I am doing it exactly as the post says which i followed the link above. It is quite straight forward, when i turn the ignition on but not start it, all the lights come on including abs and airbag which go off in a cpl of secs, thats when i start pushing and releasing the accelerator which didnt work. I tried this when the ignition on when only the radio is on as well and didnt work again.

I will go to Lander Nissan to get a new afm , hopefully the mechanic is correct and i will get away with just the afm.

Thanks for all the input i really appreciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771660
Share on other sites

If you are going to Nissan, have them read the error code before you get a new AFM just to be sure that is the issue.
No way should you buy new parts without knowing the error codes first!

Regarding the code retrieval process, you may be counting your second too quickly. Get a watch with a second hand to time it correctly if unsure... also make sure you wait the 3 seconds after turning the car to ON.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771683
Share on other sites

Ok i will try it a few more times b4 i go and get the part. I called a cpl of nissan spare parts and have been told different figures which is interesting. One said $650 plus tax for afm , and $255 for sensor only, the other said $355 plus tax.

I am sure if i only replace the sensor it should work if the problem is only the sensor right?

i have the part number as 22680N21A. Is this correct? also how much should i expect it be for? there is none on ebay at the moment. Where else can i source one in Australia if i need to?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771700
Share on other sites

Rang my spare parts guy & the part number I gave him has been superseeded by 22680--6N21A (T-30 AFM). He showed list price as $314 & trade price as $262.

That makes your $255 price the right one & a pretty good deal by my stealership-o-meter. He also said there were none showing on the computer as being in the country but one/some? were due into Vic in a few weeks.

I think it's about time I made some enquiries into a bulk purchase so we can have some on hand & for a better price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420866-m35-blown-turbo/#findComment-6771723
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...