Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty good to be honest! Had a good chat with him and he said all my work was absolutely bang on which is really reassuring to here as I have no mechanical background! Just someone who is keen to learn :)

Only issue so far is small fuel leak from the hose that runs from the tank kid to the hardline. Replaced that it's all sweet.

Every few runs he keeps getting out to tighten the straps down as it keeps walking off the dyno haha :)

  • Like 1

So keen to see your opinion of your first drive when you get it back. I would love to do this one day and just have a ridiculously quick street car that's basically always on boost. Been following this for a while, I hope all your hard work pays off for you mate.

Cheers

Brennan

post-84937-14242614599056_thumb.jpg

Can't believe how close you guys were haha. Check that tractive effort, it's pretty much dead flat and you really feel it when you drive, it just gets up and goes as soon as you hit the loud pedal.

Cam timing is still slightly out I assume due to the 25/30 situation. Revved it to 7000 on the dyno and it just kept making power as you can see. But I requested the rev limiter be dropped back so soft cut is 6600.

I'm absolutely stoked with how it drives right now, feels so aggressive and torquey everywhere.

Will give it a while and go back and play with the cam timing and give it another 10psi and see what happens :)

  • Like 3

No target. The engine will only ever make what it wants to. I don't really care about big numbers, I just want to be able to skid 4th haha.

Speaking of that, need to source a 4.11 diff, has a 4.3 in it at the moment.

  • Like 1

No target. The engine will only ever make what it wants to. I don't really care about big numbers, I just want to be able to skid 4th haha.

Speaking of that, need to source a 4.11 diff, has a 4.3 in it at the moment.

4.08 ratio is what I've put in my R32... Another option for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...