Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We see it week in week out... a customer gets told the cheap Chinese coils are no different to the OEM or splitfire range of coil packs well i can tell you they are.

I see at least one set of the 3 generic brands on the Australian market fail each week and here is the latest.... these are new 70-100 kilometer old ATOMIC coilpacks breaking down at 17psi. .. dropped in set new std ones and a set of 40,000km old splitfire coil packs and bingo 80rwkw gain...

post-34927-0-70146600-1362898491_thumb.jpg

Where do yellow jackets sit in this discussion?

From what I have gathered they are a helluva lot better than those Atomic or whatever the hell ebay specials up there but not as reliable as splitfires. theres a thread comparing all the ones of any interest here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/187108-jjr-coil-packs-vs-oem-vs-splitfire-vs-other/

Darron at Just Jap had once just sold a set of Splitfires > within 2 days there was misfiring > they were sent off for warranty > warranty claim declined (for reasons unknown to me). So even Splitfires can have a glitch or two.

Super Spark are the only brand I've known to honour a warranty claim - just about regardless - within the time limit.

I still use Splitfires tho'

Companies which wriggle out of warranties by any means, make my blood boil. A bad batch of Bosch 044 pumps are cases in point.

I had 15yr old stock coils in my GTR, making 370rwkw day in, day out. Track days, hill runs etc.

OEM FTW. Pay a tad more, last twice as long... Economy says they will be cheaper in the long run

Despite the above I do have a reasonable level of faith/respect for the yellow jacket coils and their suppliers.

The suppliers on this forum actually send out a batch of the product to have it tested in the real world by regular users. Given that there will still be a failure here and there that is a good way of getting a feel for the product and its worth in the market.

As such I wont write off the yellow jackets just yet, most people do fine out of them.

Where do yellow jackets sit in this discussion?

Same bucket as the others.

OEM or SPLITFIRE are the only real options.

i have thrown out so many other brands of coil packs its crazy.. generally they always die just out of warranty or on the second owner as most guys honestly dont own imports much longer than 2 years.... so on average these chinese branded coil packs last about the same amount of kms as a set of copper spark plugs lol

Glad i kept my oem ones in the shed.

Getting a nistune and pump etc soon, we will see how it goes ay?

Same bucket as the others.

OEM or SPLITFIRE are the only real options.

i have thrown out so many other brands of coil packs its crazy.. generally they always die just out of warranty or on the second owner as most guys honestly dont own imports much longer than 2 years.... so on average these chinese branded coil packs last about the same amount of kms as a set of copper spark plugs lol

You said the cheapos break down at high boost....If im not chasing big power will yellows be ok?

Or is it time/heat that kills them?

I think it's partly a quality issue too.

So many people I have spoken to say 5/6 work.

Painfull to get 1 replaced from supplier :(

You end up chasing your tail, replace the dead one then month later another falls over and the cycle starts over.

Status, I was always of the opinion that coils works or didn't work. But this dyno chart above shows that they can appear to be "working" but just producing way less than expected. Have you seen this with other types of coilpack mentioned above?

Status, I was always of the opinion that coils works or didn't work. But this dyno chart above shows that they can appear to be "working" but just producing way less than expected. Have you seen this with other types of coilpack mentioned above?

No its actually the opposite the coils will work fine until they are required to work under high load.. then the missfire. Car ran fine at 12psi but could not light the fires above 16psi

I've been meaning to share my experience. It's been a positive one regarding the purchase of performance coilpacks off ebay.

I'm not arguing the validity of claims made in OP nor quick to jump to conclusions around speding the big $ for quality. Everyone knows you get what you pay for.

This view may help those thinking of buying second hand.

Given my budget I was rather disenchanted with paying big dollars for second-hand brandname coils - generally some only seemed to be a 20% discount to what you would buy new.

To put things in perspective: 1. They're second hand. 2. Private sellers do not necessarily have a reputation to uphold or trade as a business. 3. Km's and/or their performance for the parts are generally unverified 4. No warranty 5. Recourse for disputes generally don't exist.

20% discount doesn't seem very attractive after-taking the above into consideration, a risk I would avoid all together and simply buy new if I could have afforded it.

The ones I use claim to have a 2-year warranty. Local Aussie seller. Recourse in Aus. - replacement. Ebay Powerseller 99.8% feedback.

I currently make 260rkw with them. $265 NEW and am currently very happy.

Happy to answer any questions. Not interested in people knocking me for using them. I'm simply spelling out better alternatives to secondhand. -knock the ones selling second hand ones at a 20-25% discount to new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...