Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I have a 1998 R34 GT-T that is fitted with the factory Aero kit. I want to install a FMIC as mine is stock but do not want to cut or modify my front bumper. Does anyone know what is required to install one with this kit and point me in the direction of what I should be buying? I would prefer a black one as I don't want it to stand out, planning on building a sleeper as its my daily. Thanks in advance for your help.

Geoff

This is the same kit in-case your wondering: http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x408/DrHaxZaw/frontbar_zps01271872.jpg

A mate of mine had a gtt with the same front bar and we didn't need to trim anything at all on the bar

Thanks for the info, besides the battery plate were there any other fabrications you needed to do for it to fit in neatly?

Get a return flow style kit, won't have to chop the fan blades as for the front bar when I was looking for a bar, a few people seemed to have chopped out a little bit around the number plate for the front mount, only going on what they said tho.

Yeah I don't want to chop the part behind the numberplate as I think it looks untidy without it, Might look at the return flow kit, I wana run about 10psi so don't need anything special, just a bit bigger than my standard one. As for the fan blades thanks for the heads up :)

Double check when you get a return flow and confirm with manufacturer if you need to cut or not. I have the Blitz Return Flow intercooler the instructions didn't explicitly state you had to chop the bumper, but in my case on my S1 R33 bumper I had to trim a bit where the indicators sit.

If you get the Blitz return flow for the R34 the minimum you'll have to do is trim the Reo-bar, but depending on how you mount it you might not need to trim anything, maybe bend bits of the chassis at most. You could probably also run 10psi with your current intercooler as the R34 is the biggest of the SMIC, just watch those Air Fuel ratios.

yeah r34 i think the reo must be trimmed, mine sits directly on the reo its a tight fit and (seems) to be cut. blitz return flow that is. but its a very basic cut so no big deal. make sure they supply 3 ply silicone because mine was fitted with 1 ply and it was thin and shit. seemed to be part of the kit

Edited by Jayden.K

Return flow is the way to go make... Saves you cutting a hole in your chassis which is defectable. Plus, Installing a return flow is much easier, comes with all the pipings and brackets you'll need.

As for cutting... I too have a Blitz return flow installed on my car, and I needed to trim the reinforcement bar. Although I have a stock front bar, I needed to trim the whole centre bit and the right hand side vents (on the bar), because that's where the piping will sit.

I want to install a FMIC as mine is stock but do not want to cut or modify my front bumper.

This is the same kit in-case your wondering: http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x408/DrHaxZaw/frontbar_zps01271872.jpg

i have that bar and i wanted the same deal - FMIC without cutting. Check out my work thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424157-r34-gtt-fmic-with-no-bodywork-cutting/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...