benelli

Nice pics. Saved those for my own notes. random fyi...... but you can kinda wedge in a r32 exhaust to a S13 and a R33 exhaust to a s14. i tried both and the only thing was on the R33-->S14 was the muffler was a bit close to the rear bumper, but one of those bumper heat shields would take care of that problem.

Double check when you get a return flow and confirm with manufacturer if you need to cut or not. I have the Blitz Return Flow intercooler the instructions didn't explicitly state you had to chop the bumper, but in my case on my S1 R33 bumper I had to trim a bit where the indicators sit. If you get the Blitz return flow for the R34 the minimum you'll have to do is trim the Reo-bar, but depending on how you mount it you might not need to trim anything, maybe bend bits of the chassis at most. You could probably also run 10psi with your current intercooler as the R34 is the biggest of the SMIC, just watch those Air Fuel ratios.

R33 has a boost solenoid that sometimes need to be left plugged in on some cars. Did you remove it, loop it back into itself? Regardless of the similarity, no two cars or engines will behave the same. need more info on your setup how did you hook up the blitz boost solenoid? did you set the boost controller to work with EWG or IWG (lots of people usually have it set to EWG/Poppet valve by accident at first when they are running IWG)?

Do it! Got nothing to lose and just cool air to gain. I fit a blitz intercooler on my R33 that was rated for +500bhp and i was just aiming for 350BHP and like GTS Boy said there was no "lag" and i figure most of this lag is also just people talking. I figure design and making sure there are no leaks and clean welds is more important than size.

yes! go read...read a lot. All your questions are very basic and all have the answers within this forum. It's only a matter of time before someone starts yelling at you for not using the search function and cluttering the forum. I was at the same stage as you back in 2009, but i read, researched and learned. Now i can do anything on my R33 with ease. But work out what ecu you're going to use first and stop bolting on random turbos that the stock ecu has no idea how they flow or raising boost without knowing what what your A/F or EGT are.

oddly enough if you're in a bind the starter for the RB20 is interchangeable with an oem nissan forklift starter part number: 23300-00H10. Couple guys here in Canada have bought the forklift starter, installed it, and it worked fine. Price was between $150AUD-$170AUD http://jdhco.en.alibaba.com/product/292217348-209895746/starter_motor_H20_H25_A31_RB20_RB25_NISSAN_PART_Forklift.html

Set your boost controller on high mode (18psi). Your wastegate spring is set for 1 bar (~14.5psi-15psi) which means there is no way you will be able to hit 13psi. 15psi/1Bar is the lowest pressure you'll be able to run in your setup.

THanks for all the input guys. @ Definitely! THats what I learned the past 2 years that without proven numbers, it's almost a guessing game. I've been following Stao's threads and I am always glad that at least there is someone out there that will make products and prove their performance. @@hypergear Thanks for the info! Problem is im in Canada where we can freely modify anything we want...but there aren't that many good shops around to help us modify. Btw, how would you fix it? Would you have to disassemble the turbo and swap out the compressor? or is it a more simple fix?

here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/307242-boost-gauge-install/ and here: http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx281/defariheiro/P1010013.jpg Tee into that line and you'll be fine. Fyi....Most manuals for boost controllers will recommend to tee into the fuel pressure regulator line....i never do that. I prefer to leave the FPR and it's lines alone. Dont really think you'll want your fuel pressure oscillating because of an air leak.

Wastegate actuator and the bar itself is fine and nothing is obstructing the flapper. My tuner was looking over the car and disassembled the actuator and put it back making sure it as correct. The WG hole has been ported already and it can't be ported any further without compromising the exhaust housing. I'll take off the dump and look at the swing valve and see if opens fully just to be sure again, but I'm pretty certain it should be ok. At this point i'm pretty much stumped and so is the tuning shop. They even loosen the pre-tension on the WG to see if it helps but nothing is working. We're overshooting boost by 15-20psi on average. Any of you run Hypergear turbos and run into similar problems? This guy in the UK ran an HKS turbo and had similar troubles as me and we tried very similar steps; http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184880 What about a 4 inch downpipe or something?

last line needs to go to a boost source/manifold pressure source. It's so the controller can get a vacuum/boost reading. Tee off the line from where the stock boost gauge gets its pressure reading

Hi, Alirght, i've been searching on here and around the internet for the past 4 days trying to find a a solution but so far nothing 100% certain. I had a stock RB25 turbo high flowed and worked on to take a billet compressor wheel and stage 3 turbine so turbo should be good for 450hp The specs i got from the shop are this: Compressor housing is stock modified stock modified/bored out for the bigger wheels Turbine housing is the stock modified/bored out for the bigger wheels Comp Wheel 54mm/76mm billet Turbine Wheel Stage 3 Garrett The turbo also had the stock wastegate actuator converted to be adjustable and was set 9psi so from the looks of it i figure the turbo should be somewhere around a gt3071 or gt3076 equivalent. The car has blitz return flow front mount, 550cc injectors, Turbosmart FPR, Apexi Fuel pump, 3 inch turbo back exhaust w/bell mouth 3 inch downpipe, straight pipe (ie. No cat), Apexi super suction intake kit, Nistune for RB25, Z32 MAF For boost controll we had a Hallman MBC controller put in temporarily and then later on AEM Tru Boost would be used permanently. Took the car to the dyno and....we can't controll the boost. It hits 15psi around 3000 and by the time it reaches 6000 it's hovering around 25psi. The boost curve on the dyno graph is a straigh 45degree line with no taper. Shoots up and keeps going up. Took out the boost contoller and ran the Vac line from wastegate to nipple on the compressor hot side pipe and same thing happened. Removed downpipe check for obstructions, nothign there ....just a nice big 3 inch bellmouth Checked all the piping and no leaks, ran air compressor to wastgate and it opens normally at 9psi. Looked at the Internal wastegate port and it's been ported/bored out to max, anymore and you compromise the exhaust housing. Any of you have any suggestions or solutions? Maybe you guys ran into a similar problem? Only thing I can think of at this time is the internal wastegate port is just too small and can't flow enough exhaust gas to control boost. Which means turbo probably needs external wastegate? Or the stock bored out nissan housing is way to small causing restrictions. I don't want to go external wastegate as I am really only looking for 320rwhp to 340rwhp (240rwks - 255rwkw) and its just a street car. Hoping i would be able to pull something close to that with internal WG setup. Next step is just putting back in my old semi upgraded Stock oem turbo and dynoing that to see what i get and calling it a day. any help would be great! thanks! Pic of exhaust side of turbo:

Just removed the motor myself today. I took some pictures, so I could see what it was I was trying to pull out. Figure it might help some of you. 1st pic is front of the dash 2nd pic is the actual motor itself. You have to wedge your hands in there to touch the motor. I used a small 8mm wrench. I found it easier to remove bolt 1 of 2 with my right hand by just crouching in front of the car. Bolt 2 of 2 I actually lied down on the passenger floor, so my face would be facing upwards and I used both hands to loosen the bolt. Any other tips other than grease to prevent the gears from chipping again??