Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even 272s are to long in duration for good low end response, 2.6 with -5s and 98 are never going to be very responsive, start with play around with cam timing, I had type B poncams with -7s and was having the same issue, third to tall second to short, changed the cams to type Rs and then I could drive third out, a responsive setup/motor works on any track

With the kind of power this combo can/should make changing back to 4.3 diff ratios will only result in fighting for traction and mean you'll end up wrestling the car all the way around the track and changing gear twice as much

omg, OP never once stated getting a bigger engine was an option, oh and the RB26 has to be one of the best know motors for track use for it's mid to top end power, reliability and revs.

I agree with Jim and changing the diffs, and the other guys in swapping the cams, and finally making sure it has good soft tyres for grip to enter the corners fast as poss. That will make a big difference to response

omg,OP never once stated getting a bigger engine wasNT an option

plenty of stroker RB28s and RB30s getting around for better bottom end response, thats why plenty of ppl do it

yes they do it for low end torque mostly for street and drag, however the RB26 platform is better for trackwork and hence why Mines' stuck to the original configuration.

But if u were talking VR38 than that's superior in most areas and certainly bottom end torque

Just to play devil's advocate here, I have 1 bar of boost at 4300 rpm in 4th gear. I run a 2.6L rb26 with Tomei 280/10.8 cams and -5 turbos on BP98. I'm not sure why you guys are saying these cams and turbos are a poor match.

That's pretty late for one bar, what power did you end up making? At the end of the day if you are happy with the lag, go for it. The top end should be awesome.

Most guys stop leaning on their setup once the power climbs which means they would be better off with smaller turbo's running harder. I feel the 200kw by 4k rule to be fairly accurate, and gives a good indication of how the car responds.

As above 200rwhp at 4000rpm is a good indicator of response.

If I remember correctly Poncam B's wont do it - the A's are better the difference being limited to a shorter duration exhaust. Also the choice is not just R, A or B Tomei will grind you plenty of other options.

  • 2 weeks later...

So as an indication what lap times are you doing at Sandown? Assuming you have desent semi slicks than if the car is doing sub 1:20s then I say you may be in the region that its time to chase reponse.

Eg on sandown in the tight section it feels like I should be cornering in third but find that to get good power down out of the corner I need to be in second. Second I need to rev the car to 9+g and third is a bit sluggish out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...