Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am very impressed by your work.

Considering the extent of work involved the idea of doing the design and initial fabrication work on the old rusted sedan shell before final fabrication in the hatchback shell is a great idea.

I will be following your build with interest.

In one page it's quite clear that your fabrication skills are brilliant!

This will be one polished car when it's finished. There'll be nothing slapped together about it. The engineer will have no other option but to pass it just because it's a whole lot of awesome!

This is gunna be one sick 'Rana!

Thanks guys for the positive comments, I wasn't sure how it would be received..

Here's a few details on what it will be running. The RB30 is from a Nissan patrol so they were a carburetted non catalytic converter engine, so I have told

the engineer I am fitting an "after market" fuel injection system and turbo, because I only need to comply to the emissions of the patrol motor the engineer

is letting me run any ecu and turbo but I have to run a cat. The motor will be built by JPC who I used to build in my other rb30 torana.

Ecu will most likely be another vipec v88, the awd system will be run by Full Race's ETS-pro if I hadn't come across this system I probably wouldn't

started the build. Brakes are R33 Brembos, the rear end is R33 gtr, front is R32 and using BC coilover. From the outside it will look like just a

LX hatchback in mandarin red but the difference will be this one will actually go, stop and turn. The last photos are where the build is at, it will probably

take 2 years to finish, so it will be a slow build and maybe a few weeks between posts.

Thanks Glen

Here's a couple of photos of my other torana.


IMGP0599_resize.jpg
IMGP0600_resize.jpg

geeebuss!!!!!!!!!!! I'm not a Torana man but hell that is dedication and definitely a unique build. What do you do for a crust if you don't mind me asking. You don't get nice welding skills like you have by being an accountant haha but then again if your a boily I couldn't imagine coming home and wanting to do it in your own time as well or am I thinking of how I would be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...