Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha and im just a sales man.

Engineer sounds lenient. Im doing a rwd rb26 swap in my sedan and will need it engineered

Iv actually emailed this same engineer before I saw any of this a few days ago now for my r31 with an rb25 in it. He's in braeside somewhere I believe. Will see what he says soon hopefully, I'm in the same boat as you.
  • 2 weeks later...

Started on the radiator it's a HQ ebay radiator with a fan shroud I made to suit twin 12" spal fans and I moved the bottom outlet.

IMGP2295_resize_zps54a0a8ad.jpg

There's about 6mm between the power steering pulley and the fan.

IMGP2298_resize_zps0475f29e.jpg

Also mounted the 45mm turbosmart hyper-gate and tacked up the dump pipe. I'll finish the dump pipe when I get the flex

coupling that will be cut in the 2" tube after the wastegate.

IMGP2305_resize_zps1563d7ba.jpg

Welded up the intercooler and piping and also fitted the synapse diverter valve which will be plumbed back to the air box.

Also started the chassis strengthening using 89x89x3.5 rhs shaped to suit the floor pan.

IMGP2310_resize_zps6669a311.jpg

IMGP2306_resize_zps8aa04a98.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

That poor Torana! Will be interesting to see what it weighs with all the Nissan gear in it - I'm betting it will be less than the R32. Can't wait to see the final product - great project turbo76lx!

wow, your fabrication skills are sensational!
No doubt you know your stuff!

Given your torana is 25+ years old, why not go club plates which will give you 90 days road use a year?
You obviosuly know what your doing and are bouncing your approach off engineer before application, club reg would allow you to bypass expensive engineering approvals and get you legal road use for under $200 a year.

I love old Torana's and Skylines so what's not to like here. So this will definitely be interesting once complete, to see how it handles. It ought to be a farking hoot to drive whether it handles like a Skyline or not, but I wouldn't be surprised if you find it holds the road in corners pretty good, with a nice drift every now and then when you want it. I wish I had your skills to bring back cars from the dead. I see plenty here in tas that need love and attention, but they just sit there rusting away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...