High Rpm Performance - Rb26

[r33_racer]

Lose the idea of an internal oil pump. Go straight for an external single stage belt driven pump, combined with an accusump and a good gated enlarged sump will sort out your oil system. That is probably the most critical part of your build for the abuse it will see on the track.

A good crank trigger system for timing accuracy.

Pretty well everything Justin mentioned. I use a Toyota mr2 spyder electric hydraulic power steering pump and it works perfectly. Boot mounted with pressure line and return line run up to the rack. Removing all the ancillaries from the block really gives you more room in the engine bay.

Obviously run E85 or a similar alcohol fuel, helps with power production and temps. With that benefit run a heat exchanger in your radiator and the oil and water temps will be kept pretty well in sync.

[Joshbigt62r]

What's a de nt crank trigger setup worth? A new oem cas won't cut it for the job. So what options are available ???

[Piggaz]

What's a de nt crank trigger setup worth? A new oem cas won't cut it for the job. So what options are available ???

Ross trigger and balancer setup is about 2K, give or take.

[nisskid]

Or you could get ridiculous and get the RB26 crank and put it into an RB30 block and get some custom 132.8mm rods made up to generate a stock stroke RB26 with a 1.8:1 rod/stroke ratio to take the edge off some of the loads and maybe reduce piston acceleration at TDC a bit - little things that can potentially help make a revvy engine reliable and efficient. As it stands stock stroke RB30s have a better rod/stroke ratio for higher rpm etc than an RB26, but higher average piston speeds due to the stroke length - getting a more agro r/s ratio using the RB26 crank in an RB30 but keeping the same avg piston speed could potentially put valuable movements towards making an effective revvy RB.

like the way you're thinking mate!

[nisskid]

If you'd like a light revvy feeling (like a 20 is) engine, just loose all the weight off the engine... Have a good hard look at an electric water pump! especially if you're going to run it in a drift car.

Power steering... again, it's a pretty big strain on the engine. As long as you have a good size battery, an electrically driven ps pump can be more (much more) powerful than an under driven mech pump. Especially with a few tricks. Again- bonus in a drift car!

Hell- if it's a track only car, mount the alternator to the drive shaft (like a proper race car).

... as you said, have a good hard think outside the box.

\Cheers

Justin

cheers mate, definitely looking into electric water pump, probably a good idea to look into electric powersteering pumps as well.

[nisskid]

Ross trigger and balancer setup is about 2K, give or take.

the setup we are looking at is a little bit custom, which we are hoping to take the cost down a fair way, but still not going to be cheap that's for sure.

[nisskid]

Lose the idea of an internal oil pump. Go straight for an external single stage belt driven pump, combined with an accusump and a good gated enlarged sump will sort out your oil system. That is probably the most critical part of your build for the abuse it will see on the track.

A good crank trigger system for timing accuracy.

Pretty well everything Justin mentioned. I use a Toyota mr2 spyder electric hydraulic power steering pump and it works perfectly. Boot mounted with pressure line and return line run up to the rack. Removing all the ancillaries from the block really gives you more room in the engine bay.

Obviously run E85 or a similar alcohol fuel, helps with power production and temps. With that benefit run a heat exchanger in your radiator and the oil and water temps will be kept pretty well in sync.

still looking into external oil pump, just finding it hard to justify the extra $$ over the nitto internal jobby when we are fairly sure the nitto will be up to the job, any more insight into this as i'm really basing that on what i've been told, not my personal opinion.

thanks for the tip on the mr2 pump! sounds good. will be running united E85 which seems to be the most consistent, not really moving from around 75-80% ethanol.

[Simon-S14]

nitto or any OEM style oil pump isnt bullet proof.. where as external pretty much is bullet proof

[Piggaz]

nitto or any OEM style oil pump isnt bullet proof.. where as external pretty much is bullet proof

True, but don't bash the limiter like a retarded clown and you shouldn't have a problem. It really isn't that hard...

[NYTSKY]

Why the hell would stuff around with a custom trigger setup when Ross has done all the R&D on a great bolt on kit. $2k is nothing for a kit like that.

I and a few other guys also run external oil pumps, not one issue with any of them. Stable oil pressure all the way up to 10,500rpm.

[Roy]

Isnt there a long thread on Ross balancers being...ummm...err...not that great?

[Simon-S14]

custom trigger can be done for FAR less then 2K

as for limiter bashing... its drift.. it happens sometimes.

[WMDC35]

new trigger thread sounds good?

[r32-25t]

custom trigger can be done for FAR less then 2K

and won't cost money in power steering belts every week

[black bnr32]

and won't cost money in power steering belts every week

?

[XRATED]

?

Some people seem to have issues with throwing power steering belts after installing a Ross harmonic balancer.

I have a Ross balancer and don't seem to have any dramas.

J.

[NYTSKY]

+1

[Simon-S14]

the issue is with the edge of the belt groove being too high it allows the belt to walk up and then throw off.. i believe ross has since rectified this issue