Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Does anyone know who stocks Nissan Matic S auto trans fluid? I am assuming that most Nissan dealers would but I am also assuming that they will charge typically ridiculous dealer prices for it. Does anyone else in Aus stock it?

Cheers

Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428533-where-to-get-nissan-matic-s-atf/
Share on other sites

I don't know if you can even get Matic S from Nissan Aus; last time I asked, I got a blank stare.

Any reason why you wouldn't use Matic J?

If you're after a full Synthetic Nissan suitable ATF; Nulon Full Synth is excellent.
Many NM35 Stagea guys have been using it for extended periods without any issues, and on high powered cars.

You can import some from the Us of A. But it will be shipping not air freight, take forever, and most likely be expensive.

Or you can go down to your Nissan dealer and buy matic J, service your car, and get on with life ;)

ANY nissan dealer can/will get nissan matic D/J (or XYZ!) for you. . .if i remember correctly the last one i got was approx $60 for four litres

the aftermarket equivalant was around the same price

Edited by StevenCJR31

Where are you using it then if not to service the gearbox?

Nulon synthetic is cheaper than Matic J...

Options include, but no limited to

Putting under the rear wheels, so skids can be achieved.

Running it in grandmas 87 corolla, that hasn't seen a service since GW Bush Snr toddled through Iraq the first time

Running it in my daily shopping trolleys manual gearbox because race shift fast change.

Theres also a Penrite Fluid which meets Nissan Matic standards, I have linked to it below; Also which kit transgo kit did you buy?

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=3&id_products=336

The Nismo Shop do it pretty reasonable if you buy a few bottles at a time, shipping is about $80 for 4 bottles/3.8L. If you're in WA I'm happy to split shipping with you.

http://www.thenismoshop.com/NISSAN-Matic-S-J-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid--999MP-MTS00P_p_304.html

Edited by Magic

The Nismo Shop do it pretty reasonable if you buy a few bottles at a time, shipping is about $80 for 4 bottles/3.8L. If you're in WA I'm happy to split shipping with you.

http://www.thenismoshop.com/NISSAN-Matic-S-J-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid--999MP-MTS00P_p_304.html

I have just found a place here in Perth that has a 20L can with a dent in it so they'll give it to me for $50!!! Normally $350-$400. Score!!!

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

The Nismo Shop do it pretty reasonable if you buy a few bottles at a time, shipping is about $80 for 4 bottles/3.8L. If you're in WA I'm happy to split shipping with you.

http://www.thenismoshop.com/NISSAN-Matic-S-J-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid--999MP-MTS00P_p_304.html

I thought they didn't ship internationally?

"This product ships UPS ground only. WE CAN'T SHIP FLUIDS INTERNATIONALLY!!!!!!!!!"

BTW I was just quoted $350 + GST ($385) from a Nissan Melbourne dealer for a 20L drum of Nissan Matic S. I want to use the right stuff but ummm... yeah, nah. Nengun sell it for $190 AUD a 20L drum but my account doesn't work and I don't know if that's shipped or not. I can also see it on Alibaba Express direct from Japan but can't get a price without an account.

My understanding is the Matic S, while a replacement for the J, is really only required for the 7 speed autos?

Mine being a 5 speed I'm going to ask if they have Matic J in stock, how much and can I use that.

Makes me wonder how old their stock is given S came around circa 2008-2009?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...