Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Sharply Turns Left On Left Turns

wiix
 Share

Recommended Posts

wiix Contributor

wiix

Posted
Posted

Hi my skyline has recently been sharply going into left corners iv checked tyre pressures and got wheel alignment check that all checked out fine so what could it be it has new tie rods and rack bushes so it cant be those could it be any thing else ?

wiix Contributor

wiix

Posted
  • Author
Posted

today while driving it was wandering on the road left and back to centers for how far i move the wheel only about 3 degrees or so and it darts it is dangerous to drive

no never had a issue from swapping from car to car

wiix Contributor

wiix

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it was ok untill i took it to someone to do some electrical work then was all over the joint from then tomorrow im going to look over the suspension iv got some knowledge on that stuff as im am a apprentice mechanic

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You say it has new tierods. Was it doing this before they were fitted? Reason I ask is I had a similar, though intermittent , problem.

On left turns, the car would suddenly flick further left, like the back end suddenly stepping out. I thought it was the HICAS going nuts. Finally tracked it down to the nut on the front right tierod had lost the split pin and the retaining nut had undone itself about 1cm. So, the ball joint was slowly moving upwards until a left turn when it would pop back into position. I was getting sudden dynamic alignment changes as the right corner was loaded up.

wiix Contributor

wiix

Posted
  • Author
Posted

today i was looking for loose parts i found 2 both the lower ball joints the nuts had come loose and were resting on the split pins so i tightened them up and used new split pins took it for a drive all is good now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...