Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, with 30k Euro in the block, crank, head alone, you aren't going to get there with the $4000 euros left in your 50kAUD budget. Shit, your not going to even have an engine. Still need rods, pistons, All bolts/fittings valves and valve train gear, dry sump system, manifolds, turbo, gates.

Thats before we get to clutch, GB, shafts, diffs.

Budget well and truly busted.

e30K is $44k aus.

now calculate redability of parts. shipping, price of living you are pushing it to the very least $75k AUD.

labour

tax

aussie car dream boats who over charge on EVERYTHING

now, we are in the $200k AUD mark already.

Lol didn't know AUS was this expensive.

Iet's stop talking about the $$$$$ as I already have the quotes here which are around 50K for everything . No need to jump in and go offtopic for this. Engine rebuild is max. 30K. Been quoted over and over. It's not that expensive. It's not a R35 GTR. We are talking here about a R32 GTS4 with a rb20det.

Edited by JDM_R32_R35

Well, with 30k Euro in the block, crank, head alone, you aren't going to get there with the $4000 euros left in your 50kAUD budget. Shit, your not going to even have an engine. Still need rods, pistons, All bolts/fittings valves and valve train gear, dry sump system, manifolds, turbo, gates.

Thats before we get to clutch, GB, shafts, diffs.

Budget well and truly busted.

Don't forget all those fuel pumps!

Hang on. You have already been told what it will cost. So therefore the spec of pretty much everything must be known. So why are you asking questions?

By the way, a 1000HP RB20 is probably doable. It's only the same as a 1300HP RB26.

BUT IT WOULD BE SOOOOOO POINTLESS. There is no point. What could you possibly do with it? A 1000rpm power band at 11k is going to be sooooo much fun to drive.

That same amount of money, spent on good cocaine and hookers would benefit you so much more.

Lol didn't know AUS was this expensive.

Iet's stop talking about the $$$$$ as I already have the quotes here which are around 50K for everything . No need to jump in and go offtopic for this. Engine rebuild is max. 30K. Been quoted over and over. It's not that expensive. It's not a R35 GTR. We are talking here about a R32 GTS4 with a rb20det.

If you already have a quote, what in f**ks name are you hoping for here?

You are not going to achieve 800kw with a 30K euro motor, at least not more than once. Australia is expensive, but it's perhaps 10-20% more expensive, and I bet we do RBs better (and probably cheaper) than anywhere in Europe.

Hang on. You have already been told what it will cost. So therefore the spec of pretty much everything must be known. So why are you asking questions?

By the way, a 1000HP RB20 is probably doable. It's only the same as a 1300HP RB26.

BUT IT WOULD BE SOOOOOO POINTLESS. There is no point. What could you possibly do with it? A 1000rpm power band at 11k is going to be sooooo much fun to drive.

That same amount of money, spent on good cocaine and hookers would benefit you so much more.

It's not a must to reply.

If you already have a quote, what in f**ks name are you hoping for here?

You are not going to achieve 800kw with a 30K euro motor, at least not more than once. Australia is expensive, but it's perhaps 10-20% more expensive, and I bet we do RBs better (and probably cheaper) than anywhere in Europe.

no comment again on this.

Edited by JDM_R32_R35

Yeah,

Lots of stress on the body when you're putting out 1000hp....especially in an older & fragile R32 chassis.

Chances are the panel gaps will get warped.

To achieve 1000hp with an RB20, you're going to need to stroke out the block to 2.4L (go with I-BEAM conrods as they can be lighter yet attain the same strength as a heavier H-Beam) and cement fill the block for high boost application,then strap on twin HKS GT3040 turbines, convert to solid lifters, full E85 conversion and fuel system to suit, modify the cylinder head as necessary (including a set of drag spec camshafts) and optimise port design etc etc, and lots of other stuff.

Done.

  • Like 1

BMW got some manky 4 cyl 1.5L iron block to hold 1500hp years ago, reliably too, they got at least one race out of them...

I say go for it. Post results.

wow. . . send me the money(aus dollars not euro monopoly money) and i will get a nice 25/30 engine for you(engine only), whack a rb20 cam cover on it and no one will know

google the britten motorbike, he made all the parts at home, you could make a new head for the 20 which would be awesome, if you stroked it down as zebra says you could copy the design of a hayabusa head

don't worry about the panel warping thing, if that happens just paint it orange and jump in and out of the windows ;) golden

wow. . . send me the money(aus dollars not euro monopoly money) and i will get a nice 25/30 engine for you(engine only), whack a rb20 cam cover on it and no one will know

lol at euro being monopoly money.

HAVE YOU SEEN SHITTY AUS DOLLARS?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you flushed the initial fluid yet? It should look like a rainbow unicorn shat glitter into it. 2nd or 3rd fluid change is when you party.
    • all brand new unit from Tomei, fluid, bearings, etc. Tomei said they call it a 1.5 lsd because its 100 percent lock up under acceleration and 50 percent under deacceleration.  as I mentioned I used their fluid, install and their break-in procedure, (alot of figure 8's) but even when driving straight, or even slowly backing out of garage for first time, (at 2 mph) then driving to and from figure 8 parking lot, each tire in the rear would sporadically grab, skip, bounce, shutter and skip, shutter back a force I could feel causing clutch to slip then grab, at any speed. shaking entire car. I removed unit, since I put stock back in and all is fine, via process of elimination, its something with the lsd unit itself. I wasn't going to beat up the entire car more or change anything else for no reason as I had a feeling something in the lsd itself was wrong as everything was fine before this alone was installed and I rechecked over everything else after first time backing out I suspected an issue. I'll probably sadly already need new tires now just from trying to drive it 5 miles and performing the figure 8 break in. but if someone has any ideas I'm all ears 
    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
×
×
  • Create New...