Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, with 30k Euro in the block, crank, head alone, you aren't going to get there with the $4000 euros left in your 50kAUD budget. Shit, your not going to even have an engine. Still need rods, pistons, All bolts/fittings valves and valve train gear, dry sump system, manifolds, turbo, gates.

Thats before we get to clutch, GB, shafts, diffs.

Budget well and truly busted.

e30K is $44k aus.

now calculate redability of parts. shipping, price of living you are pushing it to the very least $75k AUD.

labour

tax

aussie car dream boats who over charge on EVERYTHING

now, we are in the $200k AUD mark already.

Lol didn't know AUS was this expensive.

Iet's stop talking about the $$$$$ as I already have the quotes here which are around 50K for everything . No need to jump in and go offtopic for this. Engine rebuild is max. 30K. Been quoted over and over. It's not that expensive. It's not a R35 GTR. We are talking here about a R32 GTS4 with a rb20det.

Edited by JDM_R32_R35

Well, with 30k Euro in the block, crank, head alone, you aren't going to get there with the $4000 euros left in your 50kAUD budget. Shit, your not going to even have an engine. Still need rods, pistons, All bolts/fittings valves and valve train gear, dry sump system, manifolds, turbo, gates.

Thats before we get to clutch, GB, shafts, diffs.

Budget well and truly busted.

Don't forget all those fuel pumps!

Hang on. You have already been told what it will cost. So therefore the spec of pretty much everything must be known. So why are you asking questions?

By the way, a 1000HP RB20 is probably doable. It's only the same as a 1300HP RB26.

BUT IT WOULD BE SOOOOOO POINTLESS. There is no point. What could you possibly do with it? A 1000rpm power band at 11k is going to be sooooo much fun to drive.

That same amount of money, spent on good cocaine and hookers would benefit you so much more.

Lol didn't know AUS was this expensive.

Iet's stop talking about the $$$$$ as I already have the quotes here which are around 50K for everything . No need to jump in and go offtopic for this. Engine rebuild is max. 30K. Been quoted over and over. It's not that expensive. It's not a R35 GTR. We are talking here about a R32 GTS4 with a rb20det.

If you already have a quote, what in f**ks name are you hoping for here?

You are not going to achieve 800kw with a 30K euro motor, at least not more than once. Australia is expensive, but it's perhaps 10-20% more expensive, and I bet we do RBs better (and probably cheaper) than anywhere in Europe.

Hang on. You have already been told what it will cost. So therefore the spec of pretty much everything must be known. So why are you asking questions?

By the way, a 1000HP RB20 is probably doable. It's only the same as a 1300HP RB26.

BUT IT WOULD BE SOOOOOO POINTLESS. There is no point. What could you possibly do with it? A 1000rpm power band at 11k is going to be sooooo much fun to drive.

That same amount of money, spent on good cocaine and hookers would benefit you so much more.

It's not a must to reply.

If you already have a quote, what in f**ks name are you hoping for here?

You are not going to achieve 800kw with a 30K euro motor, at least not more than once. Australia is expensive, but it's perhaps 10-20% more expensive, and I bet we do RBs better (and probably cheaper) than anywhere in Europe.

no comment again on this.

Edited by JDM_R32_R35

Yeah,

Lots of stress on the body when you're putting out 1000hp....especially in an older & fragile R32 chassis.

Chances are the panel gaps will get warped.

To achieve 1000hp with an RB20, you're going to need to stroke out the block to 2.4L (go with I-BEAM conrods as they can be lighter yet attain the same strength as a heavier H-Beam) and cement fill the block for high boost application,then strap on twin HKS GT3040 turbines, convert to solid lifters, full E85 conversion and fuel system to suit, modify the cylinder head as necessary (including a set of drag spec camshafts) and optimise port design etc etc, and lots of other stuff.

Done.

  • Like 1

BMW got some manky 4 cyl 1.5L iron block to hold 1500hp years ago, reliably too, they got at least one race out of them...

I say go for it. Post results.

wow. . . send me the money(aus dollars not euro monopoly money) and i will get a nice 25/30 engine for you(engine only), whack a rb20 cam cover on it and no one will know

google the britten motorbike, he made all the parts at home, you could make a new head for the 20 which would be awesome, if you stroked it down as zebra says you could copy the design of a hayabusa head

don't worry about the panel warping thing, if that happens just paint it orange and jump in and out of the windows ;) golden

wow. . . send me the money(aus dollars not euro monopoly money) and i will get a nice 25/30 engine for you(engine only), whack a rb20 cam cover on it and no one will know

lol at euro being monopoly money.

HAVE YOU SEEN SHITTY AUS DOLLARS?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...