Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well when I first got the AEM, BEFORE I had any suspicions about it's accuracy, my tuner actually commented about how accurate it was. Said it read dead on exactly the same as his. I'm only suspicious now because of how rich it reads, but that could well be my tune.

i'm sold, techedge it is

http://wbo2.com/2j/2j9.htm

So all i need is 2J9 + cables + sensor? (17123)

Yup.

it is a good idea to grab a LX1 display to go with it if you can afford it. that way you can be sure the input settings are correct in the software on your ecu because you can compare it with the external display, also if the car leans out when your into it you can see it on the fly.

I got this depo gauge...seems all right has Bosch sensor..

Started reading lean, turns out my fuel filter needed replacing...replaced fuel filter now wideband reads error...tried to calibrate it but no response.. :unsure:

Pretty sure sensor is still fine , if unit is dead can I just get the techedge so I can link it to my adaptronic?

start again and get a new sensor with the TE. peace of mind is a good thing and they are not very expensive anyway.

I am pretty sure depo is a china brand.

Not sure, Says Japan on their site, was about the same price as AEM so figured it was an entry level unit...hopefully I can get it up and running again..its a cool little gauge but can't find the instruction booklet to figure out why the error code...

  • 2 weeks later...

Good timing for this thread to pop up... I'd just decided to drop some coin on a wide band unit that I'll have wired in permanently, when I noticed this thread.

I had my eye on a Koso unit from the states, but after reading Guilt-Toy's advice I think I'll go for an 2J9 Tech Edge unit with LX1 display.

Edited by Ryno

Crunch the numbers and find the price difference between the 2J and the 3A models, remember the techedge site doesn't quote gst, the initial pain to your wallet will soon pass and it's much cheaper to buy right the first time.

just curious on why people prefer the tech edge over all in one units such as AEM UEGO, Innovate MTX-L, LC-1, PLX?

Is it because it uses the BOSCH LSU 4.9 sensor instead of the LSU 4.2 sensor?

I bought mine mainly on reputation, a few of the tuners I've spoken to use them, and have told me the people who design and build them know their shit and they are built to a standard not a price. As for the all-in-one gauge and driver, I would have liked a gauge but this was only a secondary consideration, accuracy and quality took priority, after all this is a tuning tool not another dial to rice up my dash. Also the driver will accept uego and multiple bosch sensors.

Mike.

Edited by Missileman

^ fair enough, I don't use widebands to rice up my dash either. I've always used all in one units to street tune my car and my friend's cars, one thing I've notice is that there's always a little lag time between the pedal being depressed vs. the readout from the widebands I've used.

I posted the nistune graph in your other thread and you saw how little lag there was when I jumped off the throttle at 60, about 1/3 of second lag, and that was at minimal gas flow. I believe the techedge gauges would read at the same speed/lag as nistune.

bosch 4.9 mounted before the cat

Edited by Missileman

See how we go :)

I've recently just installed a AEM UEGO gauge on my mate's S15 just right before the cat (japanese downpipe already had a pre welded bung). I'm plugging up his Nistune either this weekend, just waiting to see if his missus will let him out for a day haha

ok....reasons im getting an error or code "03" (as it appears on my unit)...have tried to recalibrate but pushing its button does nothing....

bosch sensor has barely 3000km on it...originally had this problem with not getting enough power, but I fixed this when I rewired it...unit is getting 12v or thereabout and it was working fine until I changed a fuel filter, I also drained the tank a few times...none of which should have any effect on the wideband I thought...i did have it running too rich for a while, have fixed that... pulled sensor out and looks clean...

Anyone got any ideas here, I'm stumped ?

  • 5 weeks later...

Have you check if the O2 sensor is heating up?

ok....reasons im getting an error or code "03" (as it appears on my unit)...have tried to recalibrate but pushing its button does nothing....

bosch sensor has barely 3000km on it...originally had this problem with not getting enough power, but I fixed this when I rewired it...unit is getting 12v or thereabout and it was working fine until I changed a fuel filter, I also drained the tank a few times...none of which should have any effect on the wideband I thought...i did have it running too rich for a while, have fixed that... pulled sensor out and looks clean...

Anyone got any ideas here, I'm stumped ?

this, i have a faulty unit and even though the voltage was being sent to the sensor it would not heat up. you can light a cigarette if it works =p

Take the sensor out of the exhaust and feel it. If it gets hot quickly it is working. Careful you don't burn yourself...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...