Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stretch lol, you get around the forum if I got it right :)

Rims are Advan RS-Ds 18X10 the tyres are 255/40 but have a set of Yokohama 265/35 AD08Rs ready to go on after I get the car back and use up the rubber on the car now :)

Stretch lol, you get around the forum if I got it right :)

Rims are Advan RS-Ds 18X10 the tyres are 255/40 but have a set of Yokohama 265/35 AD08Rs ready to go on after I get the car back and use up the rubber on the car now :)

255/40s on an 18x10 rim :blink:

I too call you stretch

Stop mucking around and put those AD08rs on

haha, I thought the stretch was from a wasteland thread I was playing on :)

The tyres were on the car when I bought it and as the car has been living away from home most of the time I have not bothered. I want play a little bit when I run it in before I put the AD08Rs on.

I wanted 275/35 but they do not make a 275, just 265 then 285 ?

haha, I thought the stretch was from a wasteland thread I was playing on :)

The tyres were on the car when I bought it and as the car has been living away from home most of the time I have not bothered. I want play a little bit when I run it in before I put the AD08Rs on.

I wanted 275/35 but they do not make a 275, just 265 then 285 ?

solution was simple.......should a got 285s :P

I know now :(

BJ said these 265s are the recommended size and I was not sure about the 285s but they do not last forever and if I like them, next time :)

what model you got mate?

R33's you can get away with fitting nice phat tyres but the R32's not so much

Yeah, gota call and could have got them for $220 as they got a lot in and trying to flog them :(

At first I was looking at going to 19x10.5 with the 285s but for whatever reason I changed my mind, cannot remember why, too much red maybe :)

When you are going through a learning curve with these cars it is not easy with anything you want to do, brakes and tyres are amongst the most confusing :/

But everything can become confusing and the more you read the worse it gets. In the end you have to make your mind up what you want from the car for yourself, then make the choice and hope it gets you what you want, it can be a costly choice if you get it wrong, lol

When you are going through a learning curve with these cars it is not easy with anything you want to do, brakes and tyres are amongst the most confusing :/

But everything can become confusing and the more you read the worse it gets. In the end you have to make your mind up what you want from the car for yourself, then make the choice and hope it gets you what you want, it can be a costly choice if you get it wrong, lol

I totally understand what you mean. I've been there.

However you can only try to do what you think is right.

Sometimes you get it wrong but that's how you learn.

Talking to peeps in the business is sometimes the best thing instead of researching

I totally understand what you mean. I've been there.

However you can only try to do what you think is right.

Sometimes you get it wrong but that's how you learn.

Talking to peeps in the business is sometimes the best thing instead of researching

After researching for ages I did speak to like mined blokes on SAU on just about everything I have done so far, then researched the info given. But they still have their preferences but a great guide to know what they have done has produced the type of results I wanted.

After I was sure what I had done to the car was not getting me the response I wanted I decided on the Nitto 3.2 stroker.

I kept everything from the earlier mods I did except the cams. I am sure I can get a lot more from the car but I do not need it :)

Probably went into over kill with the drive-train, but it all sounded soooooo GOOD :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...