Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

My injectors and fuel pump is on its way to change to e85.

How do people go about this?

Will i have to fully drain the fuel tank? Easiest way of doing it?

Any form of cleaning needed? Clearing fuel lines etc?

Will then install the pump and injectors, fill up with e85 then trailer to the tuner?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/
Share on other sites

Hey all

My injectors and fuel pump is on its way to change to e85.

How do people go about this?

Will i have to fully drain the fuel tank? Easiest way of doing it?

Any form of cleaning needed? Clearing fuel lines etc?

Will then install the pump and injectors, fill up with e85 then trailer to the tuner?

Thanks

Easy way to drain the fuel tank is to simply run the fuel hose into a bucket and turn the ignition on and wait til it stops coming out, shouldn't need to clean anything. Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7024199
Share on other sites

obviously you can't change your fuel maps until you get to the tuner. Drive over on regular old 98 with a bunch of e85 in fuel drums and drain your tank there.

as for the injectors probably get the tuner to install them seeing as the car probably wont run at all on huge injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7024216
Share on other sites

I recently did a similar thing as my car is being retuned on E85 in the next couple of weeks.

I replaced the fuel hose around the fuel rail / fuel filter with some Gates Barricade stuff from Repco which is apparently bio-fuel friendly. Installed the injectors at home. The hard lines I left as they were.

Also pulled the fuel tank out of the car when I changed the pump over (don't forget to upgrade the wiring if you haven't already) to make sure that it was clean inside (couldn't really see that well in the garage with a torch) but as it turned out it looked like new. I've read elsewhere that if your tank is dirty you can throw in some E85 along with a few marbles or ball bearings and swirl it around. I also replaced the hose inside the fuel tank with the Gates submersible stuff to be safe.

I'll fill the tank with E85 and get the car picked up by a tow truck. Easy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7024332
Share on other sites

Easy way to drain the fuel tank is to simply run the fuel hose into a bucket and turn the ignition on and wait til it stops coming out, shouldn't need to clean anything.

If the pump has a direct rewire then this will work

^^ if the car is stock pump/wiring then this wont work , ignition on- fuel pump primes for a few seconds then switches itself off

Edited by StevenCJR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7024949
Share on other sites

Easy way to drain the fuel tank is to simply run the fuel hose into a bucket and turn the ignition on and wait til it stops coming out, shouldn't need to clean anything.

This. So easy. Put said fuel into daily.

Or, drive car to tuner, do the above and change injectors there.

Done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7025210
Share on other sites

This. So easy. Put said fuel into daily.

Or, drive car to tuner, do the above and change injectors there.

Done.

as mentioned before stock or correct wiring won't let that happen. The pump only primes for a few seconds then turns off as a safety feature. A hard wired pump that's always on with ignition isn't safe in the event of a crash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7025244
Share on other sites

as mentioned before stock or correct wiring won't let that happen. The pump only primes for a few seconds then turns off as a safety feature. A hard wired pump that's always on with ignition isn't safe in the event of a crash.

Even if you start the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7025279
Share on other sites

Ahhh, pull of the return line! Now I get it! spazzed out a bit :)

Lol. I wasn't very clear.

Pull return line off post regulator, put a long hose aiming into a bucket. Start car and wait for it to stall.

Job done.

Crack open a beer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7025293
Share on other sites

alot of crazy ideas for draining the tank here so heres mine,,

run hose from fuel filter to drum

If you have your pump wired for full voltage like most do, direct to battery...

I just stick a screwdriver and short the 2 pins on the fuel pump relay....hold it there till tank is empty....don't even need ignition on or a key in it for that matter....actually thinking I should just install a switch there even...to make fuel swaps easy

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431993-changing-to-e85/#findComment-7025664
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...