Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've been planning on a 30/26. The 26 I have has factory bottom end and worked head making about 500hp with all the bolt on to do so.

I've been out on the track with it a couple of times and had no problems.

Motor and box are out at the moment to put a extended sump and oil head drain.

Bought the car being told the bottom end was fully built. When we took the sump off we discovered it is stock....

So do I just put the 26 back in or do I go a forged rb30/26? The car will be 90% track. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433110-to-3026-or-keep-the-26/
Share on other sites

If you're going to do it I wouldn't personally bother with a stock bottom end. Too low in comp. IF you're using it for track you'll want more comp to give you more stick out of the corners. Fine if you're using it for the strip as you can pump in more boostage.

Mate 370kws at the wheels is nothing to laugh at. If it's making good reliable power with good response as it is I'd leave it. One of the reasons I went 30/26 was to make the jump from low 300's to low 400's. For you the jump isn't as big (unless you have a fair crack at it) so that may help in the decision to stay with what you've got.

Put half of the money in to your current setup as a (proper) RB30 build will cost you and you've got a pretty amazing engine.

I'm with Shoota77

Measure your bores and if they are within tolerances put your engine back together with rings and bearings if necessary (or if you're keen a set of forged pistons and a balance) and it will probably go for years. I have an RB30 with a stock bottom end in my Stagea and it is heaps better than the original RB25 and really torquey but its not making 370awkw. You would want a fully forged and balanced RB30 to see a significant improvement on your RB26 and probably end up spending a minimum $10k or easily double that depending on how carried away you get. Your current setup sounds pretty good and you could fairly easily get a few more KW if you really want.

Hmmmm yeh. It is responsive as is. I just wonder how much more it can be with the 30 bottom. Sorry guys, this suggestion of keeping my existing engine has has thrown a spanner in the works and confused me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...