Jump to content
SAU Community

To 30/26 Or Keep The 26?

SIR-JD

By SIR-JD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 258
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Piggaz
Piggaz

"Rev harder" For a joe blow,average guy, why do you want to spin the engine to the moon and back? It just won't last. Stroker or RB 30 all the way. More twist ... EVERYWHERE!

SimonR32
SimonR32

A SR20 as it would have more torque in the used rev range.

Piggaz
Piggaz

Couldn't be too high, 30's don't rev... Or something

Posted Images

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

I like where you are going there Mick, serious potential for you there - you could use RB26 pistons and short rods (so it will sound awesome) to make a 1.7litre... put a T66 on it with a 2" exhaust and get 50psi by 3000rpm. Will be tough!

  • Like 1
Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

BAAAAAAHAHAHAHA! :D Just wondering if the T66 might surge making 50psi @ 3000? Maybe I should put a bigger exhaust on to increase lag say something silly like a 3.5" system and bring the turbo on around 1000rpm later? ;)

I like where you are going there Mick, serious potential for you there - you could use RB26 pistons and short rods (so it will sound awesome) to make a 1.7litre... put a T66 on it with a 2" exhaust and get 50psi by 3000rpm. Will be tough!

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Lol as long as your car "sounds fast" the chequered flags yours!

I am never going to race so i give no farks about about chequered flags. Re some good tunes every time I drive the car...well I would take this sound any day I drove my car...who cares if its slow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzvMQdxUPsM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V667PHZwaYI#t=815

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Ask Gerg_31 (I think that's his name) I would bet that whilst his non turbo'd, open throttle bodied RB26 engines he was playing with would have made only average power, they would sound much like the amazing Hakosuka with the right exhaust. Turbo's are an unfortunate muffler of raw engine sound. They take the individual pulsations out to a large degree.

There is some merit to the "sounds better goes better" ideology. I put an exhaust on my VL when I was 19, probably made zero more power but f#$k I felt fast! I'll trade in my noise for power anyday however. Show with no go only tingles in your balls for so long....

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am never going to race so i give no farks about about chequered flags. Re some good tunes every time I drive the car...well I would take this sound any day I drove my car...who cares if its slow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzvMQdxUPsM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V667PHZwaYI#t=815

Now thats what i am talking about. what a sound, sheer perfection

This is why I love my slow alfa so much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YIRhzKDamg

Edited by XGTRX
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

500-1000awkw

that's also a huge range! It really comes down to what engine characteristics you are chasing. for a street car more torque pretty much always makes a quicker nicer to drive car. I know I rather a 300kw rb2530 than rb25 due to the far improved driveability. ( and that's why I went for a 30 bottom end) Edited by superben
Tyranus Proficient

Tyranus

Posted
Posted

What i was trying to say is that id rather keep the 26 and spend the cash on other areas of the car. Id be quiet happy with 300-400kw on a 26. Then again some might not comes down to personal choice i guess. I wouldnt change the 26 if i was going with twins or a average to decent sized single.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

I'm with superben. Displacement adds drivability.

Having said that I have sacrificed some low end torque with my new setup for the sake of having a nice sound to listen to, and gone for some big cams and a massively high flowing exhaust.

I think many of you focus too much on which rod ratio is better and are afraid to go much shorter than stock. In small piston engines like the RB's it doesn't really make a lot of difference with reliability/longevity of the motor. Its not as though the engine is throwing around 4" bore pistons. The SR23 engines with 137/91 = 1.5, with a 89mm more is a good example.

There are advantages for the short rod ratio engine in a street car too. The main one that comes to mind is that a radically ported head will work well at lower engine speeds, due to increased piston speeds and higher vacuum pull. This is part of the reason Piggaz's combination works so well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...