Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just built a new house and want to seal the floor of the garage.

so many different products out there i would like to know whats best? i spill oil water etc when working on cars.

i seen in this section many photos of cars sitting on nice clean garage floors

If you can afford to, do a polyurethane or epoxy type floor seal. This is nothing like hardware store floor sealer.

These surfaces are used in industrial high traffic areas, the food factories I've worked in renew them every 5 years or so; as a home garage floor it would be next to indestructible.

You can steam clean, no damage, use jacks etc, no problem. They can be textured or a gloss finish; the gloss is like glass.

get onto http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ it's basically SAU but for garages / workshops & is quite frankly awesome. Has a whole section on Flooring.

Then recommend getting into the 'garage gallery' section which is basically build threads. Current favourites are The Concrete Underground, 44 Bikes Frame Shop & Mark's Monster Garage but seriously heaps of awesome builds.

Prepare to lose hours / days / weeks...

The epoxy flooring is tough, but certainly not indestructible. I have 2 garage floors done in this stuff (total about 240m2) and if you drop sharp steel objects on it hard enough it will damage the coating. I just finished fabricating a heap of shelving and work benches and dragging 100kg shelf units across the floor (with sharp edges on the end of the feet) does scratch / damage the surface. If you drop something heavy onto the concrete, it'll crumble the concrete underneath and the poly coating will come off.

Still, this stuff is infinitely stronger than paint, so will stand up to general wear and tear (dragging jacks across the floor, pressure washing, oil spills etc.)

Also remember some of it is very slippery when wet.

I used paving/concrete paint from bunnings, and it is starting to wear after only 12 months of weekend use. So depending on price of the epoxy stuff I would go that instead. It still looks good overall and seals oil/water properly but I don't think its going to last as long as I'd like.

Most workshops that use paint redo it every year.

Also it's important to acid etch the floor first or it will flake off early.

Shit, that garage forum will have me stuck for hours!

it seems poly or epoxy is the way to go. bout 499 for 20L which should do my floor and my old mans also tho his will need a fair bit of cleaning or diamond cutting back since its over 10 years old and is fairly worn. both about 6x6m

Shit, that garage forum will have me stuck for hours!

it seems poly or epoxy is the way to go. bout 499 for 20L which should do my floor and my old mans also tho his will need a fair bit of cleaning or diamond cutting back since its over 10 years old and is fairly worn. both about 6x6m

You want a rough surface for the paint to stick to. It mechanically adheres to the concrete it doesnt react with it. So clean it, degrease it and etch it with either the proper etching stuff or if you know what you are doing and are careful (fkn careful) acid.

  • 1 month later...

so i've done the clean, and sand of the garage floor. @$#%^^$# asian painters and plasterers that did my house are a bunch of messy %@$$^#$%&$%^$%

Did the etch on wednesday afternoon and have now got the first layer of epoxy down its starting to look pretty good. except for the small cracks everywhere.

will grab a photo today after the second coat. i ended up buying the epoxy from csw coatings 10L kit will do two pretty thick coats on my 6x6 m2 floor.

How much was the 10L? I've got a 6X7 garage and 14X8 shed to do, both new concrete.

Would you still need to etch clean a brand new floor? Obviously clean off the concrete dust and give it a good wash but would it need an etch?

Amerlock 400 is the go

My garage is done in this. After looking at dads shed, about 15 years its had the stuff on it and we have dragged, dropped, got thiners, oil etc on it and the only bit that has been damaged is missing a chunk of concrete. The stuff is great

We got it locally at an industrial paint etc supplier, can't remember how much but about 10L did the garage floor, the small shed slab and a little bit of concrete where my small clothes line is. Will try and get a photo in a bit

How much was the 10L? I've got a 6X7 garage and 14X8 shed to do, both new concrete.

Would you still need to etch clean a brand new floor? Obviously clean off the concrete dust and give it a good wash but would it need an etch?

bout 300 i think i spent. acid, masks, paint rollers and metal paint pole + other shit

i had to sand my floor in many places, and get the high pressure hose on it , and yep etch is a must unless you grind.

i mixed half the 10l bucket and did two coats for 6x6 and had enough left over to do a fair bit more so a 20L would get you done with two coats.

post-31456-0-28551300-1385110007_thumb.jpg

Would anything like this be OK? Or not worth the bother? Not cheap by any means.
I just need to paint half the concrete floor of a double garage.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/berger-jet-dry-10l-heavy-duty-evening-stone-paving-paint_p1410009

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...