Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks alright, but more than I want to spend now. The other problem is it's interstate, so to keep it rego'd here means a trip to Regency for an ID check. Anything looks non-stock then they send you to the pits. I'd be much happier to get a locally registered car.

Given your intended aims, is there any point in having a car that remains registered and compliance with your State laws?

Who said anything about remaining in compliance with state laws? If it is registered in my name initially, I can let it expire, but then get a permit (up to 3 days) at any time for getting to & from events & pre-event test drives - ie we replace steering bits & brake parts before an event, for $56 I can get a 3 day permit to drive to get a wheel alignment, then test drive to bed in brakes etc, then drive to & from the event. In SA we can also put it on seasonal registration, then can renew for 3 months at a time whenever we want. As long as it looks fairly stock externally, the chances of getting defected are low.

So no intention of keeping it registered, and certainly not compliant, but this gives us more options.

+ 1 for r33 gtst Geoff, i use to run my series 1 street car at mallala track days. It was only making 265 rwkw, with upgraded brakes and coilovers, never had any cooling probs with a standard radiator. The little civics would keep up in the turns but it was good to have the power to pass them all on the straights. Only issue i had was a weak LSD, would sometimes spin one wheel out of corners.

B

M

W

German-built Datsun. :)

OP has made it clear that he wants to screw some power out of it at some point. Going to need a boosted S50 or better still an M50 donk for that, = $$$

Worth consideration though.

Edited by Dale FZ1

Yeh the threads going to be renamed:

"Help me justify buying an R33 Skyline for a track car" :P

Just kidding - wouldn't be the first person to decide on what he wants then use motivated reasoning to validate the decision - we've all been guilty of it.

  • 2 weeks later...

To close this story (and start a new one), we bought an S2 R33 GTST today - pretty much un-molested. Needs a few things done but the price was right. Will get into it this weekend & see what we need to do now, then get it on the track. Booked for the hillclimb at SAU nats, so that may be the first event - would be a good shakedown for it.

Thanks to all (ok most) for the comments & suggestions. I still don't like rotaries.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...