Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I get on average 260Kms a tank with my GTT aswell. Engine wise it's completely stock. I've cleaned AFM changed the fuel filter, fuel filter was completely clogged I noticed a slight difference in fuel consumption, maybe I'll have to go for the O2 sensor and new plugs see if that helps as well

Also if someone has put a low temp thermostat in, or yours is stuck open, then that will also add to poor fuel efficiency. Cold crank enrichment tapers off at 70C so the quicker she gets up to temp the better.

This. I put a Nismo thermostat in my Riceline, water temp now sits at 60C unless I'm at a track day. I struggle to get 12L/100kms, when I first bought the car I easily got 9.5L/100kms on the highway

I do do alot of short trips, I'm running PFR8 plugs with a 0.9 gapp,

Short trips, incorrect heat range plugs - no wonder you have absolute crap economy.

Try running a 6 heat range for starters. And plan your trips better so the engine operates at the correct temperature for most of the time.

So OEM/stock thermostat is best for fuel economy? What about oil cooler with built-in thermostat?

Mines got a oil cooler with no thermostat, oil temp sits between 70-80 degrees. I run BCPR6ES plugs with the standard gap, which is 0.8mm from memory.

I've found V Power to give me greater mileage than BP Ultimate for some reason too

I ran those before the PFR8S and it was the same thing, well the owner in Japan did fit quite a few Nismo parts to the car, I'll check what thermostat is in there and give the AAC valve a clean aswell, is there a way I can get error codes through a power fc by any chance, thanks.

And whats the difference between the BCPR6ES and the BCPR6E? And could some refresh my mind the lower the number the higher the plug temp correct? thanks.

Edited by MrRx7s3

Yep lower number is hotter. Has anyone checked their timing? That would have an impact on economy. Also should be talking litres per 100 ks as too many variables with a 'tank' of fuel.

true but seriosuly when were talking a difference of 550km- 250km, i dont think brimmed vs filled is going to mean too much.

Its not the difference of how full, but how empty it is when you fill it. Accuracy of fuel gauge and how far you are willing to with the gauge below the E.

mine been tuned a while back after i re-did my fuel pump mod for battery voltage, crap economy, around 300km on full (72L tank IIRC), o2 sensors turned off, bcpr6es plugs, no leaky injectors, although i do short trips (10km) each way to work, low temp sender perhaps buggered?

mine been tuned a while back after i re-did my fuel pump mod for battery voltage, crap economy, around 300km on full (72L tank IIRC), o2 sensors turned off, bcpr6es plugs, no leaky injectors, although i do short trips (10km) each way to work, low temp sender perhaps buggered?

Install a wideband o2 and see what your car is doing. I've seen lazy tuners who don't even care too much about off boost injection maps and just rely purely on o2 closed loop to work out the mixtures.

I find mine is chewing up a fair bit of petrol as well. I've put some fuel injector cleaner in which should help, also going to replace the spark plugs and clean the AFM sensor to see if that makes a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...