Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great read, though I'm hanging out for an open deck RB25! :yes:

In a Stagea block? The main reason for doing the open deck engines is to get better fitment than an RB30 block, but if you don't have to worry about retaining AWD, the RB30's are easier to work with.

The VCT can be transplanted to an Rb26 head too, although it also occurred to me that I could make the spacer plate to adapt between a 26 block and a RB25 neo head. Then plumb in the oil for the VCT to the side of the plate for VCT like I already do for head oil supply on this engine.

Then I guess there is only the matter of getting a side mount plenum and it would fit a GTR still.

Reasoning for using Greddy plenum? I have always liked them...but guessing your reasoning may be more measured????

Partly for more volume, partly for the second set of injector bosses, and also so I can balance the intake throttles independently using an old school airflow balance meter.

In hindsight I should have gone with a Nismo one, or gone stock. It was a pain in the ass to get it in there with the extra 10mm height this engine has (in its fitted position). Clutch master cylinder to plenum clearance was non existent until I lowered the engine a little.

Second shake-down drive today. Performed flawlessly. :)

Still having to re-work the fuel map a bit, but I have the drive on load area's pretty good now. All going well and weather permitting I'll be going for a sunday drive to put a couple of hundred k's on it.

I was able to take a few photos outside of a garage today too.

post-26553-0-85671300-1387448359_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-31834600-1387448426_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-18360500-1387448476_thumb.jpg

post-26553-0-58201500-1387448539_thumb.jpg

I had to read you post about your breather system again after looking at the photo, I thought it read you where trying to vacuum out of the cam covers, oh god no, then after looking at the photo and rereading it I see what you've done, should work very well, a great idea, in the baffling in the camber on the block have you got any gauss/foam/steel wool to "catch" fine air born oil particals

500rwkws is easily achieved with a 2.6 with this turbo and head setup, I would think the idea of this engine is to do it as low in the rev range with as wide as possible power band and least amount of stress on internals as possible

I am keeping a very close eye on this, like the last one, cause as I have nearly completed a RB30 based build and I am not entirely happy with fitment

I love the colour on your car, it is what I wanted but my BB one came up at a price I couldn't let go

Thanks for the positive replies everyone.

I was able to go for a bit of a drive today, and have so far put about 300km on the new engine. It is awesome to drive, with amazing low end grunt. The only quirt I've noticed is that while it has enough torque to drive at 1700-1800 rpm in 5/6 gears, the roughness of the cams don't make it a smooth drive.

Keeping revs below 4000 is a challenge, as it seems to want to achieve wastegate boost at 3600. Ive had to lower 10 degrees of ignition out of the map so as to reduce torque should boost get to high.

I've got to do something about the noise too. Considering trying an Apexi slip in active silencer to try and curb the drone and bark of it a little.

Edited by GTRNUR

I'm driving the car every day again now in order to clock up some KM and put the engine through some heat cycles. There is a little over 450km on the engine now and it is continuing to make me smile every time I drive it.

I've got the low end tune to about 80% to perfect, and as a result the throttle response is purely ballistic now. To give you an idea, it will chirp the wheels if you tap the throttle too quickly when idling along in a car park.

The boost response with the 6466 is extremely impressive. It actually achieves wastegate boost quicker than a stock turbo'd GTR does. With moderate loads and driving gently, it makes 0.3kg/cm at 2000 RPM. At 2400, its at about 0.5kg/cm and 1kg/cm at about 3000 RPM. Then you have to ease off the throttle or it will threaten to rev past 4 in the blink of an eye. The twin gates currently have 18lb springs installed, and both gates open at only 3400RPM!

Its going to be interesting to see what kind of top end the engine will deliver. It seems I could have gone with a 6766 or even larger, and still had ballistic response.

That's all for now..

post-26553-0-41027700-1388308672_thumb.jpg

Well it turns out that its even more responsive than I had thought.

The attached picture shows a screen shot of a drive I did today while data logging. 1.3kgcm is the 20K load scale. Full boost was achieved at 3200 rpm. This was the first time I have held it flat in 5th gear to properly load it up, other occasions had been about 3/4 throttle. As you can see from this screen shot, at 3200 its on.

I think it will be capable of pumping 25psi by 3500 from the looks of this, which means I will be very close to achieving my low end power goal of 300kw @ 4000 rpm.

I tried making a drive video today too but my camera it didn't turn out. I need to buy a go pro.

post-26553-0-01005100-1388658222_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...