Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm also interested in this. Had a quick look at Brown Davis and they show a full cage which is built into the car over the top of the rear seat, but certainly wouldn't allow for any passengers to sit there. Perhaps I'm not looking in the right spot? PaulosECR33 - Can you shed any more light on them?

Do you need it to be CAMS approved? If not your cheapest solution are the cusco jap cages they make ones that retain rear seats, otherwise yes you can make a proper ones that retains seats.

Cusco are not cams or roadworthy.

Brown davis will do a half cage that is cams and adr, so no trouble on or off the track, i reckon you would be really pushing it to be able to put people in the back with a cage there but they do build cages that let you keep the seat.

It would be possible, but it wouldn't be CAMS approved, even minimum CAMS spec requires a cross bar (in main hoop is most common) but either way it's going to restrict passengers.

uncomfortable passengers... why do you want a cage?

uncomfortable passengers... why do you want a cage?

Truth is I don't like the ''becauseracecar'' look of a cage that restrict the back seat. And I know local police won't like it too.

2) Both my sister and father.. heck even my young brother don't drive so it happens from times to times we take the skyline and need the space behind.

3) I might just go with the do-luck room bar if I can't fit any cage/bar down there. Actually, tbh, I wanted a cage so I could fit my harness safety. Instead of bolting them on the floor which I was told are not safe to do.

Edited by cobrAA

Hey guys, just curious if theres a model of cage that would allow me to still fit passenger in the back seat or its impossible ?? Or could it be done if done custom-made !?

Thanks.

This guy has "sort of" done it - could probably get one passenger in. Given you're in Canada though I'd have no idea where you'd get it made.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/105872-my-skyline-gt-r-r32.html

It's ridiculous if you're thinking about buying a roll cage just to fit a harness.

There are countless places you can mount your shoulder straps without a roll cage.

Read the CAMS manual and make sure the straps are within the recommended range of angle and you will be fine.

IMG_9975_zps35c2ec8e.jpg

Rear seat is for homo's =P

Thats exactly what the back of mine used to look like cept for a fire stringuisher on the tunnel, i refitted the top half of the rear seats a while ago so at a glance it looks like the whole thing is there.

It's ridiculous if you're thinking about buying a roll cage just to fit a harness.

There are countless places you can mount your shoulder straps without a roll cage.

Read the CAMS manual and make sure the straps are within the recommended range of angle and you will be fine.

thank you. will look into it. i was told by a instructor here that i couldnt fit a harness without cage.

It would be possible, but it wouldn't be CAMS approved, even minimum CAMS spec requires a cross bar (in main hoop is most common) but either way it's going to restrict passengers.

for cams you can have a cross bar( diagonal) go from one of the rear legs to the other , it doesnt have to be on the main hoop

thank you. will look into it. i was told by a instructor here that i couldnt fit a harness without cage.

This is probably due to the angle of the harness straps after you mount them to somewhere like your rear seat anchors.

Check out page 4 in Schedule I of the CAMS regs: http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralRequirements/GQ10-Schedule-I-2014-1.pdf

The other option is to look at getting a harness bar. These are removable so you can still fit passengers in the back when you're not at the track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...