Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just depends how competitive you wanna be?

I love both cars and own an evo 9 & NOTHING corners like it!

My 1st track day ever I was 5th fastest lap of the day in my 1st timed session ( popped a cooler hose 2nd session and it started to rain before my 3rd session) & the fastest on street tyres I believe.... Not bad for an amateur and a stock turbo :D

A 200kw evo feels like a 300kw gtr performance wise in street trim imo

Waiting to be flamed now lol :(

Edited by Mick_o

Evos typically cost more. You can usually buy a GTR and get it built to how you want it for the price of a good evo....

In saying that:

My mate has an evo 9.

Exhaust+ up the boost see 220KW. Job done.

Edit: in saying that i did notice Op saying 5/6/7 evo. I would get a 32 to be perfectly honest. Though i am biased.They are cheaper and quite a bit lighter than the other dielines. And it doesn't cost that much to get them "Safe".

Strip them and they really come out of their shells. (so to speak)

Edited by Anfanee

Just depends how competitive you wanna be?

I love both cars and own an evo 9 & NOTHING corners like it!

My 1st track day ever I was 5th fastest lap of the day in my 1st timed session ( popped a cooler hose 2nd session and it started to rain before my 3rd session) & the fastest on street tyres I believe.... Not bad for an amateur and a stock turbo :D

A 200kw evo feels like a 300kw gtr performance wise in street trim imo

Waiting to be flamed now lol :(

unless youre at a track with gutters aye micko :D

Rb26 rebuilds aren't cheap so keep that in mind.

especially if you have the older r32 with the short nose crank.

altho not much comparison but 209awkw evo 7 feels faster and more fun corning than my 280rwkw R34 GTT.

but on a motorway run, the skyline would pull away.

9 Months for a ground up rebuild is normal TBH. Mine was in the shop for about that. Im still going too. Only little things to go. The only part that is original is the radiator ATM. getting replaced next month. Everything else is brand new pretty much.

I wouldn't risk buying a GTR without putting it into a shop before you track it. Or buy one cheapish and track it till it does break. If you are willing to put the time in (time more than money) they are worth it.

Other option is to possibly find a GTS-4 skyline and do a 30/25 conversion into it. Just an idea. (cheaper!)

Lol @ all the power mods talk! What about making the car balanced & handle? Big power aint gunna win the races corner speed is and that's where the evo shines! Evo will probably cost a lil more for the initial purchase but will cost alot less to make it faster around a track ;)

Edited by Mick_o

For a starting track car simple Coilovers are simple and cheap. all the discussions beforehand have been about the engine hence the input.

It is not hard nor costly to make a GTR handle beautifully.

Just wondering if you have driven an evo before Anthony? Cause while I do agree that it doesn't take much to getting a GTR to handle well a cheap nasty set of coilovers still wouldn't bring it up to spec with an evo with a rear sway bar and some swift springs on stock struts.

Legit though. Personally if i was looking into a track car id get a gts-4 and convert it. All the positives from the GTR without the price tag!

Except for the wider track and ability to run wider tyres and alloy bonnet and guards and the ability to say GTRs bischs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...