Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Start car.

Start playing eye of the tiger.

Wait for chorus.

Sing chorus.

Drive away knowing your precious 18 year old engine is ready for battle, with alll its warm bits, that you dont know what they are or do, spinning happily.

Here are my 2c. Some of it is not applicable...Unless you live at Mt Hotham.....

Having lived in Canada and started cars quite often at -40C or colder there is more to it than just starting and driving away. When the oil is really really really cold even the best oils are like treacle. No make that peanut butter. So what happens when you start the car, even with a block heater, you can see oil pressure on the gauge, but the oil may not have made it to the bearings. (ie the oil is still making its way through the oil passages. Plus for anyone who has primed an oil pump with a drill, you know how hard it is to turn at pressure - just imagine how hard it would be to run with peanut butter in it... lots of stress everywhere...... So in this situation you have high pressure, and very very little flow.

So when it's really really cold I did let my car idle for a few mins before driving off. One crazy cold night when it was -55C I let our F350 6.0L Diesel fast idle all night as there was no way it was going to start the next morning.

For my Stanza race car I have an oil pan heater and a block heater. That way when I start it, the oil is warm and the engine water is also warm.

For my GTR (standard) I start it and just drive off slowly and don't run boost until the oil is at operating temp.

Jeff

I've always used a general rule of thumb to keep it under about 3,000rpm and half throttle until it's up to temperature, then go for broke, but really it boils down to not driving like a dickhead until it's warmed up.

  • 2 months later...

Sorry for noob question but what is normal oil temp? Just cruising around town barely coming onto boost my oil temp is reading 90-93 deg? I'm sure there is some variance pending on mods, driving conditions etc but I guess I'm just wondering what is "safe" and what to expect

Here are my 2c. Some of it is not applicable...Unless you live at Mt Hotham.....

Having lived in Canada and started cars quite often at -40C or colder there is more to it than just starting and driving away. When the oil is really really really cold even the best oils are like treacle. No make that peanut butter. So what happens when you start the car, even with a block heater, you can see oil pressure on the gauge, but the oil may not have made it to the bearings. (ie the oil is still making its way through the oil passages. Plus for anyone who has primed an oil pump with a drill, you know how hard it is to turn at pressure - just imagine how hard it would be to run with peanut butter in it... lots of stress everywhere...... So in this situation you have high pressure, and very very little flow.

So when it's really really cold I did let my car idle for a few mins before driving off. One crazy cold night when it was -55C I let our F350 6.0L Diesel fast idle all night as there was no way it was going to start the next morning.

For my Stanza race car I have an oil pan heater and a block heater. That way when I start it, the oil is warm and the engine water is also warm.

For my GTR (standard) I start it and just drive off slowly and don't run boost until the oil is at operating temp.

Jeff

Hi guys, I live in -55c temps. Will this oil be fine?

ET4070-5-medium.jpg

Sorry for noob question but what is normal oil temp? Just cruising around town barely coming onto boost my oil temp is reading 90-93 deg? I'm sure there is some variance pending on mods, driving conditions etc but I guess I'm just wondering what is "safe" and what to expect

That would be normal temp

  • 3 weeks later...

I like the idea of warming it up for 3 to 5minutes so the pistons can expand and aren't loose in the bore, I cant prove its the best thing or not, I like to put some Lucus upper cylinder Lube in the tank so theres lube in the fuel , that way the cylinders shouldn't be getting washed of their oil and are protected when its being thrashed. I don't think it matters that much in a stocker, in a big horsepower engine , its going to be pulled down

from a broken ring landing or big end bearing before a cold start wears it out.

Edited by AngryRB

I tend to turn my car on, reply to any messages / set Google maps / start music or whatever i'll need before my drive then drive slowly until it's warmed up.

Never had any issues, my suburb is full of speed bumps, pot holes and old angry women so i can't go fast anyway lol

I tend to turn my car on, reply to any messages / set Google maps / start music or whatever i'll need before my drive then drive slowly until it's warmed up.

Never had any issues, my suburb is full of speed bumps, pot holes and old angry women so i can't go fast anyway lol

Best way to warm up a cold car lol.

With many German cars like BMW the manufacturers recommend to turn the car on, let it idle for a minute and then drive it nice and easy till it reaches the operating temp. This way the motor and gearbox warm up together.

There is no mention of idling the car for any length of time in the user manual of my BMW & from what I've read on the BM forums, most people don't idle warm up neither, just drive off & keep the rpm < 2.5k until oil temperature is around >/= 90 deg C.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...