Help With Stiff Clutch Needed

[sweefu]

Push type are same, pull type aren't.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nismo-clutch-slave-cylinder-nismo-big-bore-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-091989-021993-gts4-r33-gts25t-gts4-r34-25gt4-p-85.html

Which R32 GTR had push type clutch?

For push type, you can use a Toyota Hilux 7/8" slave cylinder, all you need to do is drill out the mounting holes from 8mm to 10mm. They cost $19 at Bursons, not $200 from Nismo.

[MrStabby]

Thank you I will check the booster operation and will play with pedal settings. Hope it will make the difference.

I messaged the owner again and he checked the info with the guy who sold the car to him. So the clutch I have is Exedy stage 3 hyper single 6-pack clutch/flywheel combo. He also mentioned that I have oem lines and oem slave cylinder. Well, I will try to play with adjustments as you suggested (also thank you so much for everybody who pm'ed me!) and if adjustments won't work, I just will exchange the clutch for something more forgiving. This car will not see the track and sitting in the traffic with this clutch is unbearable...

I think you'll probably want to change out the puc clutch then, and leave the hydraulics as they are.

My car had an OS Giken twin plate when i got it, and after it got a little temperature in it, it worked a like a switch (on or off - nothing in between), so was horrible in traffic. Swapped it for a cheapo organic single plate (good for 240kw) and all was good. When power went up to 300kw i got the NPC organic single plate which was still still quite inexpensive and still very easy to use.

The adjustment will just move the take up point - it will still be as grabby and heavy.

[Skyride]

The 7/8'' would be the go.

What setup is your 6 pucker? Ceramic or brass button? What type of center is it running?

This is a contributing factor to clutch engagement.

Is it a new clutch? How many k's has it done?

If its fairly newish, & the adjustment is good, maybe it could do with a MEDIUM/CONTROLLED launch or two to change the friction point.

After my 500k run in on my NPC single organic (re-stickered Exedy GTR setup) clutch I performed 2 medium launches (my Stagea is FAIRLY stock) & it changed the feel & friction point.

It is a pull type clutch that came with a chromoly steel flywheel, 6-puck cerametallic facing and a spring center damper disc assembly. Not sure what you mean by "button"?

The clutch has maybe 3000km on it but I don't have any hystory if the break in procedure followed or not.

I am quite sure that this clutch has seen more than two medium or "controlled" lunches and that it was taken to the drag strip before.

I think you'll probably want to change out the puc clutch then, and leave the hydraulics as they are.

My car had an OS Giken twin plate when i got it, and after it got a little temperature in it, it worked a like a switch (on or off - nothing in between), so was horrible in traffic. Swapped it for a cheapo organic single plate (good for 240kw) and all was good. When power went up to 300kw i got the NPC organic single plate which was still still quite inexpensive and still very easy to use.

The adjustment will just move the take up point - it will still be as grabby and heavy.

Yeah, my biggest fear. Don't have the means or knowledge to drop the tranny myself and there are no shops around here that I can trust with my GTR.

Well, waiting for the snow to come off (hopefuly in a month or so) and will start testing the system components, will swap the Nismo slave, and if nothing helps...oh well...I tried my best. At least I now know for sure what I have for the whole clutch system installed which is a definite bonus

Thank you guys for suggestions and for taking your time replying. I will update this post with my progress as I go.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Hello there,

My first post and I need some help. I did use search but didn't find anything I could use.

The car is 1991 R32 GTR.

My clutch pedal is very stiff. I have almost no clutch play - it grabs in a very close distance - feels like on/off switch. I am looking for the ways to make my clutch pedal more forgiving. What would be the suggestions?

Previous owner wasn't sure but told me that it's most likely Exedy (?) twin plate clutch. Any way to identify the clutch without dropping the tranny?

I downloaded the R32 GTR service manual and will try to trace and check the system for leaks and whatnot. I don't know what lines I have - nismo or oem, I am not sure if any other components are oem or replaced (master cylinder, operating cylinder, what fluid used, clutch booster oem or a/m? etc.) So additional question would be what to look for and how to identify the major oem or a/m components.

I would appreciate any help I can get.

Been driving an Auto for 7 years , I recently bought a R34 with a OS Giken Quad plate clutch, and had to drive it home from Sydney with bumper to bumper, stop starts to the freeway, ton of fun for the first drive:) and the clutch seemed exactly how you describe yours , on/off with VERY little play.

Just keep driving it and it should get easier and after a week or so you will not notice it, muscle memory kicks and all good.

Well unless there really is a problem with the clutch , but if it does not sound bad , slip etc, just drive it as much as you can and concentrate on when the clutch kicks in, even when I change gears , up or down I do not just drop it, that 1/2 inch can be eased in

[Nismo 3.2ish]

To Add to that , before I picked the car up I was reading a lot of different Forums about these type of clutches.

Blokes saying, no good for a street car "do not buy them", "change them for something else", dangerous on wet roads.hard on your leg, on and on , with the exceptions of course. I have to say all of this info put some negative thoughts in my head and did not help on the way home from buying the car.

I am a 71 year old short arse and if I can do it, anyone can

If anything' I am starting to really enjoy this type of clutch the more I use it and it gets smoother every day. Love that feeling when you change down around a corner and it feels like nothing has changed and you just power on

[Sinista32]

my 2cents worth.

Your clutch is designed to be on/off. Replace or get used to it.

I'd say the person who put it in was after high rpm / dropping the clutch for take-off and quick changes.

Edited March 8, 2014 by Sinista32

[KiwiRS4T]

But I wonder if you keep the master and the lines the same size as before - where the volume will come from? Sorry, I am not very bright

The extra volume comes from longer pedal travel (goes closer to the floor) so may require an adjustment. I haven't had a car with a clutch m/c booster - is yours working as it should? If so I am surprised that your clutch action is still so hard. Sounds like the slave cylinder swap is the go.

[niZmO_Man]

Which R32 GTR had push type clutch?

For push type, you can use a Toyota Hilux 7/8" slave cylinder, all you need to do is drill out the mounting holes from 8mm to 10mm. They cost $19 at Bursons, not $200 from Nismo.

08/1989 - 02/1993, Push Type

That's good to know! Any other differences?

[533 RYC]

It is a pull type clutch that came with a chromoly steel flywheel, 6-puck cerametallic facing and a spring center damper disc assembly. Not sure what you mean by "button"?

The clutch has maybe 3000km on it but I don't have any hystory if the break in procedure followed or not.

I am quite sure that this clutch has seen more than two medium or "controlled" lunches and that it was taken to the drag strip before.

Yeah, my biggest fear. Don't have the means or knowledge to drop the tranny myself and there are no shops around here that I can trust with my GTR.

Well, waiting for the snow to come off (hopefuly in a month or so) and will start testing the system components, will swap the Nismo slave, and if nothing helps...oh well...I tried my best. At least I now know for sure what I have for the whole clutch system installed which is a definite bonus

Thank you guys for suggestions and for taking your time replying. I will update this post with my progress as I go.

So its had a conversion from push to pull then?

What geartbox is it running? R33?

You have a ceramic button. 'Button' is the name given to the type of clutch that is no slip (on & off)

Ceramic can handle more heat than brass or copper.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Also depends how the pressure plate is set up. If you've ever driven a car with a NPC clutch you'll be amazed how soft and how little effort is required to press the pedal.

To give you an idea, a NPC 1800 kg pressure plate will feel like you're driving a Yaris. However the way they're setup, it's also OFF and ON.. and a total bastard to drive.

However, clutch specialists have a way of setting up clutch plates so they engage differently by slightly creating a void between the pressure plate & clutch disc. I recently had mine "tricked" up, and I can tell you the pedal is as light as a Yaris and also it's quite drivable and has no on and off siet.. the clamp has been reduced to 1700kg however that's more than enough for my fridge.

[sweefu]

08/1989 - 02/1993, Push Type

That's good to know! Any other differences?

No other differences! I used one with my RB25DET gearbox and it bolted straight up after I drilled out the holes to suit. Cost $19 from Bursons vs. $200 from Nismo, great upgrade. I'll check the part number tomorrow (in the garage) and post it up.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Also depends how the pressure plate is set up. If you've ever driven a car with a NPC clutch you'll be amazed how soft and how little effort is required to press the pedal.

To give you an idea, a NPC 1800 kg pressure plate will feel like you're driving a Yaris. However the way they're setup, it's also OFF and ON.. and a total bastard to drive.

However, clutch specialists have a way of setting up clutch plates so they engage differently by slightly creating a void between the pressure plate & clutch disc. I recently had mine "tricked" up, and I can tell you the pedal is as light as a Yaris and also it's quite drivable and has no on and off siet.. the clamp has been reduced to 1700kg however that's more than enough for my fridge.

Hi John , very interesting info. Unfortunately a lot of it goes over my head but getting a little more knowledge the longer I am reading the helpful posts.

I have an OS Giken Quad clutch on a R34 GTR that is virtually on /off and even though I have gotten used of it for a DD , if I am on a steep hill and taking off I have to concentrate or I can still stall it , can this type of clutch be tricked a bit.

The car is going into the workshop soon to change the T78 Turbo to a PT6262 and while it is there maybe I can ask them about this and see what they can do with the clutch

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I can't see why not? usually discs sit completely flat with the flywheel and the other surfaces.. which has a very ON/OFF type of engagement. What the guys did was ever so slightly bend the puks on the clutch plate so there's a tiny air space when left on a surface. This means on light engagement not all of the clutch surface is used, however when the entire clamp is applied the clutch face will sit flush and provide the full clamp.

Best to call/email Scott at Western Clutch in St Marys.

They're really helpful and took me on a tour around their workshop showing me exactly what they did and how.

That's what I call service!

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Thanks for that , I will get their info and give them a call and see what they say, if it can be made easier , why not

[Pattey21]

Had to

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Had to

CLUTCH, CLUTCH!

NOT CRUTCH