Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...

Good thread.

I just did a track day and spoke with my workshop afterwards, they recommended getting an oil temp gauge at a minimum.

So going by the suggestions in the earlier posts, if I was to get boost and oil temp gauges plus perhaps a shift light for the track, what brands should I be looking at? Autometer, HDI, anything else? Defis look nice but exxy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7474540
Share on other sites

Yeah but defis work good, are reliable and also record and can show max levels with programmable warnings, plus easy to read and look good, you get what you pay for, monitoring your engine is pretty important

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7474661
Share on other sites

Yeah but defis work good, are reliable and also record and can show max levels with programmable warnings, plus easy to read and look good, you get what you pay for, monitoring your engine is pretty important

Ok I take your point - just bought a set of 60mm boost/oil temp/water temp Defis at a reasonable price. These are not the latest model but seem to be in good nic.

I'll need to find an R34 triple gauge pod (the holder only) and a replacement Defi oil temp sensor somewhere, any recommendations on where to look?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475407
Share on other sites

do love the defi's too expensive for me though.

I got race tech gauges, does the job for street abuse.

they are the 60mm 3 in one gauges

1st gauge EGT, fuel pressure, Water temp (top of rad)

2nd gauge Oil press & temp and water temp (bottom of rad)

3rd AFR

EBC shows me boost.

you take your eyes of the road when on track, maybe at best you look down at the dash... rarely...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475531
Share on other sites

do love the defi's too expensive for me though.

I got race tech gauges, does the job for street abuse.

they are the 60mm 3 in one gauges

1st gauge EGT, fuel pressure, Water temp (top of rad)

2nd gauge Oil press & temp and water temp (bottom of rad)

3rd AFR

EBC shows me boost.

you take your eyes of the road when on track, maybe at best you look down at the dash... rarely...

Cheers Daniel, looks like a great setup! I just found more details in your build thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452874-dannys-r34-gtt-build-diary-log/?p=7463887 . It sounds like installing the probes is a pretty big job?

I agree about not really being able to look at gauges out on the track, however there's always a bit of time during a cool-down lap :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7475548
Share on other sites

not sure what race's you've been to but the only cool down time is when your off the track completely, and yes installing the probes will be your biggest concern, once you get your head around all the fittings and npt vs bsb threads you'll nut it out quickly, also my local auto pro help's me with various fittings and adapters, so keep that in mind when something doesn't fit, and sometimes you'll just need someone to weld in a bung for your sensors.

Cheers.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7476076
Share on other sites

Check out the auber gauges. Super accurate and can be wired up to a beeper alarm. I've got them in my Cefiro and wired a switch into the alarm for when the car isn't running etc. Alarms are fully adjustable and if you want to change what the gauge is for down the track you just buy another sender and wire it up.

They are relatively cheap too (more now with the AUD going down) but I just bought 2 for my Patrol as well as they were $226 delivered. Brilliant after sales service too!

I've since added labels to each one but here is a summary:

  1. Oil temp
  2. Oil pressure (shown in Bar - car was off at time of photo)
  3. Water temp
  4. Warning buzzer - Each gauge has configurable warning levels switched by an internal relay. All 3 gauges are negatively switched to the buzzer so when the internal relay switches upon hitting the limit it will start the buzzer flashing and beeping
  5. Switch for buzzer - I added a switch to the buzzer so if something goes wrong and I'm aware of it, it doesn't continually keep beeping at me!
  6. Switch to allow radio, clock, central locking to work when the kill switch is off. When it is on it allows current to pass through a 15amp fuse across the kill switch terminals so if you try and start the car without the kill switch the fuse blows. When it is off it means the car is drawing no power.
  7. Kill switch

IMG_5708_zpsa1308e89.jpg

Edited by konect
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7476290
Share on other sites

Personally dont like the look of those data monitors, but to me that seems like a very well thought out and nice setup. The alarms in my gauges piss me off but they are either on or off. Would be great to have a buzzer cancel and alarm wired up to a 5psi oil pressure switch to cancel it when the cars off

If I had the money and room, I'd have so much crap in my car haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477011
Share on other sites

Hehe. I used Auber Instruments' PID controller to replace the thermostat on my espresso machine. They make good stuff - just not as pretty as Defis. Auber "gauges" are not really gauges in the real sense of the word. They are little 1/32 DIN industrial indicators that you can set up to display the output from pretty much any automobile sensor (if you try hard enough).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477059
Share on other sites

Yeah had a play with the Defis tonight, just basic wiring to battery to see the powerup. The startup sequence is pretty nifty, it's a great piece of marketing on Defi's behalf, looks like every other gauge is doing the same these days :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477111
Share on other sites

I actually went with digital gauges, mainly because in a scenario where you're wanting to see if something is boiling, all I want/need to do is see whether it's a 3 or 2 digit number. :P

That said, a buzzer would also suffice for this, and is a far better idea than quickly looking down near your head unit while driving at speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477184
Share on other sites

I also went digital but slightly different. I bought one of these when first released

http://www.rhdjapan.com/apexi-din-gauge-3-multi-purpose-digital-meter.html

You can set alarms and colours for different temps and pressures. It displays oil and water temp plus oil pressure. Comes with sensors and harnesses and fits perfectly into a normal din mount.

The good thing with the colours is that you can set it to blue for when the cars warming up and as it gets to normal operating temps it will slowly change to green. If the temps start to rise then it changes to pink and then red.

Has all the usual options like peak recall ect as well.

Here a short video of it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477208
Share on other sites

I'm keeping an eye on the zada tech 7" LCD as a replacement for my triple gauge cluster:

R34 mount replacing MFD/gauge pod:

http://zada-tech.com/blog/nissan-gtr-r34-7-mfd-gauges#.VL5x0u_c3Jg.twitter

Will also be keeping eyes on this, looks awesome but I don't imagine it will be cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477389
Share on other sites

I'm keeping an eye on the zada tech 7" LCD as a replacement for my triple gauge cluster:

R34 mount replacing MFD/gauge pod:

http://zada-tech.com/blog/nissan-gtr-r34-7-mfd-gauges#.VL5x0u_c3Jg.twitter

Nice!! I like that. Now I just need to upgrade the 32 to a 34 [emoji16]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/page/2/#findComment-7477665
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...