Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today my 1999 S2 Stagea (RS4S) hit 100,000 kms, and it was kind of upsetting. It made me feel like the car had graduated to the next age of car life.

But then I realised, this is a ~15 year old car, it must be going pretty well to only be hitting 100,000 now. Right?

post-120736-0-81406000-1400105147_thumb.jpg

So tell me, how many Kms has your Stagea done?

100k club?

200k club??

or a special garage dwelling <50k?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443149-how-many-kms-has-your-stagea-done/
Share on other sites

Today my 1999 S2 Stagea (RS4S) hit 100,000 kms, and it was kind of upsetting. It made me feel like the car had graduated to the next age of car life.

But then I realised, this is a ~15 year old car, it must be going pretty well to only be hitting 100,000 now. Right?

attachicon.gifIMAG0263.jpg

So tell me, how many Kms has your Stagea done?

100k club?

200k club??

or a special garage dwelling <50k?

Just get speedo wound back as per most jap cars....

Edited by Ben C34

78,000km ('04 PNM35), and from the condition I'd say they're genuine. Still had some factory plastic protective film in places when I got it, I don't think anyone ever sat in the back.

96 model, 130k kms. Can't be sure if it's genuine. Some doubts for me are that Ive replaced the turbo. It wasn't blown but had too much shaft play. Front shocks were totally worn by 100k kms on the odo, which Im not sure if its normal since it's a heavy car with sporty shocks. Maybe too much wear on the drivers seat too. No point dwelling on it. Its running well and is in good condition now.

Just over 300,000.Killeran, I'd suggest getting Japanese History Check to prove your KLM, I think its very unlikely a car has done under 7,000klm per year every year of it's life...

I think many of the answers here would be ???,???kms.

It's been endemic in the industry for a long time.

  • Like 2

98 rs4, bit over 228000kms, pretty good condition, it's had a turbo at some point before I bought it, only engine repairs I've done are timing belt and all front seals and water pump. Heaps of stone chips and some rust under the mirrors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...