Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering which wideband oxygen sensor to get. First thing is what are peoples thoughts on running an O2 gauge? I don't particularly want to but I spose it would be good to monitor AFR's. This car will be doing lots of drifting and I was hoping to just run oil temp, pressure and water temp.

Will be using an Adaptronic select plug in R34-GTT ECU.

Would ideally like to run something from the tech edge catalogue because they are Australian. All I really need is a sensor to feed wideband AFR's to the ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444361-wideband-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

Having a gauge is a personal preference thing. Personally I look at it after doing any work in the engine bay but if you're hammering it around the track you won't so much as glance at it

edit: I'd have to agree with the MTX-L. I couldn't get the serial output working on my AEM EUGO but with a mates MTX-L it never had an issue. (same PC)

Edited by Blackkers

Email adaptronic for the gauge, there is one that can be wired into the ecu and give you real life reading on both the gauge and loges with the ECU. I've got that on my Kia, works very well and very handy when comes to road touch ups.

Email adaptronic for the gauge, there is one that can be wired into the ecu and give you real life reading on both the gauge and loges with the ECU. I've got that on my Kia, works very well and very handy when comes to road touch ups.

yeah that would be the Innovate MTX-L lol

http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/mtx-l-wideband-airfuel-ratio-gauge/

If you're not really fussed about the gauge, how does the LC-1 compare against MTX-L? Have heard reports about it being "hard to wire up" but I'm not sure if that's a legitimate complaint. Some people shouldn't be let loose near a soldering iron :P

There is an LC-2 newly released but adaptronic not carrying it yet.

I had a brand new AEM UEGO that was reading about .6-.8 more rich than at the tailpipe after comparing 2 other widebands.

The only difference is that the permanent sensor is installed pre-cat obviously. Not sure if that's normal

Both or one of them might be due for a free air calibration?

Agreee with that. My LC1 seemed to read great. Had a 10% difference with the sensor used on a dyno.. trusted the dyno sensor and ended up maxxing out 555cc Nismo Injectors with not enough power to match.

Ditched the Dyno and operator when he was "going for the 300kw" regardless of the rich detonation, and took over 10% fuel out from 3500rpm and above on the road on the way home. Turned out the LC1 was spot on.

I just made sure i re calibrated it each Oil change. 3+ years now.

I got 4 years out of mine on ethanol, but it wasn't the sensor that went, it was the LC1 unit that failed.

It is carbon that buggers the sensors, especially if the heater can't keep up with cleaning it off. I know tuners that replace the sensor every week or two as they cop a hiding from running rich on petrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...