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Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

WOW. Any more info on that car? I can't find anything on google

Just bought my second 6boost manifold and I think its great build quality and performance, would highly recommend

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.26.37.jpg

attachicon.gif2014-06-26 12.27.22.jpg

Your car makes me very jealous.

  • Like 1

You cant be serious? ;)

Perfect robotically tig welded runs as apposed to the shit 6boost welds? As far as I know the full race manifolds are schedule 40 pipe just the same as the 6 boost.

I've had both 6Boost and full-race (as mentioned above) in the sr20 configuration. The pipe diameters were the same and quality were both excellent but would sway towards the 6Boost for a better quality finish (this is back in 2008). The full-race is a heavy bugger being cast stainless and comes with lifetime warranty to the original purchaser....as I think the 6Boost does too.

Its not the welds - but rather the pipe to flange fitment i found the 6Boost to be better. I spent some time with a die grinder blending on the full-race. No such "tidy-up" was required on the 6Boost.

Interesting observation....the 6Boost also runs a shallower angle merge collector compared to the full-race and the above billet collector. Better.....who knows?

The full-race runs cast stainless pipe whereas the 6Boost does not. Perhaps the cast stainless is heavier.

On the jig

full-racemani.jpg

full-racemani2.jpg

On the car

ExhaustTurboIACVblock026.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock025.jpg

ExhaustTurboIACVblock015.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1

I took these pics at work for work. They are both SR20DET twin scroll twin gate manifolds.

6boost is ceramic coated so all it's joins are smoothed out and so are it's welds, so it's not the most fair comparison but we'll work with what we got.

On 6boost you can see that there is surface rust already forming on the uncoated parts but the flange-to-pipe and "merge collector" are better compared to Full-race. Full-race ports each runner and the collector. Full-race is raw so you can see the welding is undeniably superior due to machine welding, it's stainless steel which has a few advantages including handling high heat better than the 6boost mild steel. Full race is a few hundred more expensive (in terms of SR20DET) so it's up to you if the advantages are "worth it".

Hope that helps :)

fullraceVS6boost1.jpg
fullraceVS6boost2.jpg
fullraceVS6boost3.jpg
fullraceVS6boost4.jpg
fullraceVS6boost5.jpg
fullraceVS6boost6.jpg
fullraceVS6boost7.jpg

A look inside the Raw Brokerage 304SS billet collector which is exact 100% of the time eliminating human error as well as variance in jigging. They're designed to have a shallow transition and identical primary merging:

5UIxdlMl.jpg

2,000 deg temp coated Raw Brokerage Billet Series Manifold:

C2wpKWNl.jpg

Just wondering if these manifold in twin scroll are quality product ?

My mechanic told me to stay away from Rawbrokerage because he saw too many cracking. He recommand 6boost (1600us) or Full-race ( 1800ish us) + shipping ( figure another 50-75us$)

While the 6boost is 1360us delivered. Is there any other manifold option for an EFR single ?

Having seen the pics the Rawbrokerage item is worlds away from the cheap ebay stainless manifolds that do crack and fail.

Has your mechanic seen an actual Rawbrokerage manifold that has failed?

So much idle gossip in this business but seeing is believing.

And slightly off topic that Top Cat car seems to be running one of the few 3.4L equipped RB30s! (want one for my car).

Could you refer me to a cracked Raw Brokerage manifold? As we've yet to receive a complaint from any one.

I'm sure our one piece billet stainless collectors are stronger than a fabricated unit on any other setup:

1lBoYNNl.jpg

TopCat run's one on his 1000hp Time Attack Car, no problems:

4WVdyTI.jpg

It's definitely a beautiful manifold but it sits ridiculously high (but maybe that's an rb30 specific problem)... 1000hp on an 8374 is a bit of a stretch too!

  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

I know this is an old thread but I am in the market for a T4 split pulse manifold.

The 6-Boost runners all look the same length albeit quite long but the pulsing should be smooth and even however the Doc Race and Full race do not look to be equal length runners, which would not be so good. Looks can be deceiving but that is what it looks like to me.

The stainless ones look pretty though.

6-Boost gets my vote. Function before Form!!

664B16D5-A6E9-4D53-AD0A-61AFB2982E1E_zps

For what it's worth. A 6 Boost manifold on a RB26 based block with a 8374 1.05 ass end on it.

My mate is having trouble with his 6 boost manifold cracking, all the ones I have seen never have enough reinforcement on the welds.

Any he bought the manifold new but wasn't the original purchaser so they are not honoring the lifetime warranty which I think is disgraceful.

Just another reason I would never get one.

Really looking forward to your results Piggaz!

Will you tune it first on 98 before changing over to e85?

It's flex tuned so I'll post up both results.

98 is always a "commuter fuel". So I never really push it that hard. 20-22 psi on petrol it will be.

  • Like 1

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