Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, using stock 34R dumps.

Mods are:

-7's, stock dumps with 60mm into 70mm front pipe, metal cat, apexi N1 exhaust. Apexi Power FC and HKS EVC 6

The workshops that have tuned mine are in Southern Sydney. Hint, Levinboy has seen my R in the same workshop he uses. But that's not who tuned it this time round.

Would I be better off with dialing in cam gears on stock cams?

My goal is for 300kw's. But 'street' responsive.

Oh I can't see that cause on mobile

I'm to am on phone, iFail 5 lol

At the bottom of the page under the advertising thing is a little box with a line out the bottom, push that and all will become clear :D

Yes, using stock 34R dumps.

Mods are:

-7's, stock dumps with 60mm into 70mm front pipe, metal cat, apexi N1 exhaust. Apexi Power FC and HKS EVC 6

The workshops that have tuned mine are in Southern Sydney. Hint, Levinboy has seen my R in the same workshop he uses. But that's not who tuned it this time round.

Would I be better off with dialing in cam gears on stock cams?

My goal is for 300kw's. But 'street' responsive.

That is exactly what I had, 313rwkw in a quite responsive package and then bam bent and cracked crank :(

Do the cam gears

For the love of god... Just buy the UE cams.. They are going to be better then any of the other stuff you will buy off the shelf

I already sent an email to UE ;)

Needing stronger spring is cool with me, I wanted to replace them already

I already sent an email to UE ;)

Needing stronger spring is cool with me, I wanted to replace them already

Ask them to do the complete cam, spring and retainer combo. It all works. It's bloody painful when it doesn't...

*mumbles under breath..."lame jap shit"* lol.

  • Like 1

I find it interesting that people are going into so much detail into choosing/designing (!?) cams here yet the high lift UE 250 cams are being recommended as a blanket rule for 2.6, 2.8, 2.9 and 3litre engines - dynamically cylinder filling/trapping between all of those engines are going to be quite different. I've chatted about this with XKLABA and Piggaz before but it still seems to be being overlooked, not sure if I am missing something with the design here or if you guys have found that they are a magic bullet regardless of compression, turbo combination, piston versus valve location etc?

The results are very good, and achieve what has been expected - but there are lots of really good results out there, I guess it's impractical to do a test but I'd love to see the 250s compared with other cam options on like spec motors and see if the results are all as expected. I like to think there is always a better way :D

I'm going to try the drop in poncams type A.

Probably too small for my engine but I compared them to supra 2JZ factory cams which is a little closer to what a stroker is and I'm going to see what they do. I also got cam gears in case. If I decide these are too small I will spend much much more and go with real cams later. Does anyone know how much I need to relieve the head for the cams while I'm porting it for the larger cams later down the road?

Lifters, springs, retainers and "Pro" cams came out to somewhere around $1500 US. This is before nailing down shim height and ordering correct shims.

I'm not sure by what you mean to small for a stroker, my 3.0ltr has 250 x 9.15 poncams with GT-RS twin turbos and with 28psi made 623hp at all for

post-36620-0-91554300-1410316528_thumb.jpg

As for relief for cam lobes, it really should be done to suit cam which would mean you red to get cam and then see what needs removing

I'm going to try the drop in poncams type A.

Buyer beware: There is currently a supply issue with Tomei cams..

I recently had a lubrication issue with my motor that saw quite bad damage to my Tomei sticks. I replaced every relatable part and really struggled to get another pair of Tomeis, which is when I found out about this apparent supply issue from multiple stockists. No names, but most of the big local guys are talking about removing them from shelf as they are too hard to get ATM. I was told there was a 5 month wait to get the ones I purchased and they could only supply 2 pairs. They did however sneakily send out a lot of left overs from a custom order in place of both 256 and 264s and many stockists were simply selling them on.

Moving on from this, the brand new lifters I installed turned out to be faulty and failed within an hours use. I drove the car home on the noisy lifters and opened the motor to find that the brand new cams had copped pretty bad wear already (just from noisy lifters). I've never seen damage that bad from noisy lifters, its shocking and cries out to me that their little 'supply issue' is not so much related to demand as it is to quality.

I just thought I would chime in with a warning as I am down a set of cams and am unsure what to make of it. Will most likely be going another brand and forking out for the touch up tune as a result.

GL

  • Like 1

Buyer beware: There is currently a supply issue with Tomei cams..

I recently had a lubrication issue with my motor that saw quite bad damage to my Tomei sticks. I replaced every relatable part and really struggled to get another pair of Tomeis, which is when I found out about this apparent supply issue from multiple stockists. No names, but most of the big local guys are talking about removing them from shelf as they are too hard to get ATM. I was told there was a 5 month wait to get the ones I purchased and they could only supply 2 pairs. They did however sneakily send out a lot of left overs from a custom order in place of both 256 and 264s and many stockists were simply selling them on.

Moving on from this, the brand new lifters I installed turned out to be faulty and failed within an hours use. I drove the car home on the noisy lifters and opened the motor to find that the brand new cams had copped pretty bad wear already (just from noisy lifters). I've never seen damage that bad from noisy lifters, its shocking and cries out to me that their little 'supply issue' is not so much related to demand as it is to quality.

I just thought I would chime in with a warning as I am down a set of cams and am unsure what to make of it. Will most likely be going another brand and forking out for the touch up tune as a result.

GL

do you mean we shouldn't buy tomei cams because of bad quality controls on their lifter or because they might not have them in stock ?

what spec are your camshaft?

Orly?

I mean, yes - correct... just testing :)

I wasn't aware of UE before this thread, their website is under construction and on their facebook page , all recents post are about american big build. so it must be the reason why not everyone knows about these cams.

However, I had a facebook conversation with them and all they offered me was some tomei or mine's camshaft, nothing custom here.

and when I asked them about the complete kit, as per piggaz 's recommandation. they never replied to my message. Either I don't have the right shop, they dont make custom camshaft anymore or they think I'm not a serious buyer..

Edited by cobrAA

Are you talking about the Tomei +1.0mm lifters/buckets

do you mean we shouldn't buy tomei cams because of bad quality controls on their lifter or because they might not have them in stock ?

what spec are your camshaft?

Sorry about the confusing babble guys. The lifters were not a tomei product, they were an aftermarket replacement sold as a upgrade for SR20s (upgrade my ass).

The lifters are to blame for my second failure however I would have really thought the cams would survive some noisy lifters for the drive home. Never have I seen a set of cams get flat spotted from noisy lifters.. And I have heard some horrible lifters.

My cams are Tomei 256 Type R for S13 SR20DET.

This report/warning is made on the basis of the coincidental 'supply issue' and a pair of cams not durable enough to cop < 1hr use with noisy lifters. I do believe they should be more durable than this.

I hope that clears it up.

Yeah they are just cast.

I used Penrite HPR5 which is a 'full zinc' oil which is whats required for proper camshaft run in. I ran the motor for a good 30 minutes with varying RPM before cool down and then restart. By my knowledge thats the right way to do it, however slightly less pedantic.

Anyhows, thats the report and my personal opinion based warning. I am just guessing here but I have heard talks that Japan has had materials shortages due to shipping issues post tsunami. Now its also been speculated that these parts are made elsehwere in the world but this is the general gist of what I am starting to form.

Not wanting to fear monger anyone but I am definitely keen to change to an American supplier. Despite the fact they would be made in China products I am more confident in the QA requirements set out by the brand. Thems the feels anyway.

do you mean we shouldn't buy tomei cams because of bad quality controls on their lifter or because they might not have them in stock ?

what spec are your camshaft?

I wasn't aware of UE before this thread, their website is under construction and on their facebook page , all recents post are about american big build. so it must be the reason why not everyone knows about these cams.

However, I had a facebook conversation with them and all they offered me was some tomei or mine's camshaft, nothing custom here.

and when I asked them about the complete kit, as per piggaz 's recommandation. they never replied to my message. Either I don't have the right shop, they dont make custom camshaft anymore or they think I'm not a serious buyer..

CobrAA. It is pretty clear, by reading the posts in this thread, that UE is Unigroup Engineering, here in Australia, not in some mystery location on the other side of the world.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...