Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Honestly with that much power in mind, just get a cross flow and a forward facing plenum.

It'll make life a lot nicer when it comes to working on the car and its a lot simpler (less joins, fewer points of failure)

I tell you know, if you're going to be getting 380rwkw out of a GTST, it's going to be FAR from legal and you'll have more than a few headaches with police. Effectively turning your car and $10,000 worth of mods into a garage queen.

Just get a crossflow and get Scotty_NM35 to fab you up a pipe which can bend around the bottom of the radiator and pop up into the engine bay... No holes needed.

A big high flow turbo + E85 + Blitz return flow + factory airbox would keep you under the radar.

In the end police will always be able to find an ECU or injectors or boost controller if they want to look for them, which means anything over 170rwkw has the potential to get you found out. It's all about hiding it as well as you can. If you can keep the engine bay looking stock they won't have reason to look much further. I'd argue that any forward facing plenum is grounds to scrutinise the engine bay, versus a cooler that uses the factory piping.

But some people say blitz return flow cooler won't handle 380rkws .can only handle 250rwks

Some people don't know

I'm doing 275 with mine on a conservative dyno and I don't think it's at its limits.

If you are in Vic, keep it all looking as stock as possible. You can still make the power using ethanol as a fuel instead of dino 98.

Either a good return flow or custom piping cross flow will do the job, no need for holes to be cut. ;)

How can cops find out what ecu or injectors u got???

also i have a blitz return flow for sale if your interested :)

If cops that moody, they'll tear your car apart.

don't they need a warrant or something for that? they not really allowed to pull out the interior trims are they?

Dunno what rock you've been living in, but cops are known to take kick panel out to see what ecu the car has and some cops know what colour injector caps of cars.

Welcome to Victoria.

Plus some cops doesn't even do that and decide to send you a EPA letter and let EPA do the work.

They carry portable tool kits

Screwdriver to pop open / destroy your kick panel and look for ECU

Injectors are pretty obvious if you know the engine and certain Knox people know the standard RB25 colour is dark red/maroon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...