Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to build up a solid set of spare parts for the GTR as it's only being used for track duties and the parts on it will be getting tired.

What should I be on the lookout for when a GTR is being parted out etc.?

The gearbox and diff have just been reco'd and I'm on the lookout for a spare engine, but what are some other parts that will need to be replaced regularly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449974-spares-for-motorsport/
Share on other sites

As in parts from a wreck?



I don't thing much in the way of consumables will be reclaimable from a wrecked GTR to be honest. Most of the stuff you consume: tyres, brakes, tyres, bushes, tyres, pads, tyres etc you need to buy new.



I would think spare rims (so you can make sure you use up all your tyres) would be the most helpful if you are doing a lot of track work.


Agree there is little to keep from a wreck. I'd grab 4 hubs and all the control arms/castor rods, attessa pump/accumulator, ps pump and steering rack (reco it) but that is about all. Sadly panels can be handy like bonnet, guards, front bumper, bov return pipe, bumper reo but they are often missing or stuffed in a wreck or half cut anyway

For close race meets I take the short spares list: old but usable pads and rotors front and rear, oils and fluids.

For longer trips I take more stuff (a bit random) but based on stuff I've broken before like castor rods, spare bushes

And in the garage I have or am collecting engine, gearbox, diffs, subframes, attessa pumps, clutch/flywheel

But most importantly I regularly check and swap stuff over between meets; recently replaced the steering rack, tailshaft centre bearing, front rotors, subframe bushes, engine belts, coil packs, ignitor. Shortly need to redo all the rear bushes too.

And then call Pete if you get stuck :)

  • 1 month later...

nasty.

I learned 1 more thing I should carry around, a spare FPR....looks like mine is dying slowly, luckily it was running way lean at idle but was OK on boost as the pressure rose. Lucky outcome because the other way around would have been an engine killer.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

And Evo, so when the Gtr breaks you've got a car to use for the rest of the day that won't break

Don't be deceived by this evil Evo talk Fatz,,,we all know GTR's spin bearings and their owners know it's going to happen sooner or later.

The evo boys just dump a load of oil all over the track and quickly trailer it back into the workshop for another rebuild. They just don't want to admit it.

Cheers

Neil.

Don't be deceived by this evil Evo talk Fatz,,,we all know GTR's spin bearings and their owners know it's going to happen sooner or later.

The evo boys just dump a load of oil all over the track and quickly trailer it back into the workshop for another rebuild. They just don't want to admit it.

Cheers

Neil.

I also find they, put them into the wall, when the computer says no....

Edited by toppertee

We have one at our workshop alot, sees more shop time than track time, only makes about 300 awkw, been in for diffs multiple times, transfer case, one gearbox, 3 turbos, manifold, exhaust, clutch, normally he's lucky enough to be able to drive it onto the trailer when the car shits itself, so it doesn't look as dramatic as a skyline fail. Yet they have there fair share of issues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...