Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe, BUT it has only been 19 weeks, give them a chance, they have long lunches :cheers:

Oh, late start and a siesta after lunch, givem a break they can only work 1 hour a day :thumbsup:

Now they are just teasing you, haha. Just be happy when you get it back it all works and you have no issues with it I rekon. Also I think your number plate would look better back in the stock location.

How much longer did they say till its tuned and ready for pickup? Should be a real beast with the 3.2 :)

Hope you are wrong Mick,lol

I have seen number plates blocking half of the grill, not only that, a lot of blokes have their cars looking great and it looks like they nailed the plates on the front, but this is a personal choice, I like it there out of the way, that's why I got the thinner style. I am pretty sure that plate does not fit into the stock location.

Looking at about a week, so maybe the end of next week, but who knows. Then have to get the kids looked after and go to Sydney to get it.

As for the power, not pushing for high power, just response for a DD, I doubt if it will be much over 400awkw, it was 345awkw before the build

I am looking forward to see how the drive train works in together. it will be, Coppermix twin C Spec clutch, slave cylinder, Quaif front diff, trannie modified and going into the Nismo 2-way LSD. :woot: It has to drive better with the twin instead of the quad clutch as a DD :yes:

It will not take too long for the final tune as the drive home is about 350Klms and I will do it ASAP and get it over with and hopefully never have to do anything else to the car :)

  • Like 1

Would want to farken hope they know!!!

Me too, when you have this type of work done you would think the builder would know what compression ratio he is going with, I hope :/

Bets on how long the getrag lasts? :P

I dont think you quite know what you have built here Pete at 345kw that 6262 was barely passing wind. I think you can expect another 100kw out of this thing (with E85). It will probably make 345kw at around 4500 lol!

On that note is it being flex tuned?

yeah Mick, I already have the Haltech ECU and flex fuel sensor going in .

Getrag, are you the voice of DOOM , put me down for a $100 on 3 weeks, if I just hit 3rd slowly with soft hands, maybe 3 months , LOL

345kw @ 4500, laggy heap of shit!

I am sure I will scare myself,I think I have done that with every car I have owned, some lucky to get to 80mph but they could scare the crap out of you just trying to stop them :w00t:

Nice pics Pete, but how's YOUR engine going? :unsure:

CR will be like my cam specs, closely guarded secret :rolleyes:

So they never told you your CR when they built your motor, that is weird I think, if you pay for something you should get all of the info on your build, well should ?

So I will have cams that are a secret and a CR that is a secret, getting scared :bomb_ie:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...