Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep rock solid, had my GT-R on them (all four wheels off), car didn't wobble/move. The flat design top is much better than that 'c' shape the smaller stands use, doesn't do as much damage (i.e. nil). Everyone knows how awesome the undercarriage of the R32s are.

  • 1 month later...

I brought my GTR with a suspected blown motor( got it cheap) went out brought an already complete motor rb30 bottom end, then pulled the 26 out , turned out it shitted an exhaust wheel but the motor was fine could of only put a turbo on and drove the thing instead the 30 went in waited 12months to drive it. Spent the money doing the 26/30 mods, got the motor in my car, got 8000kms and lost oil pressure, the bloke I brought the bottom end off put the n1 pump on with no crank collar. She was a ticking time bomb . New motor again now, the cheap GTR is not cheap no more haha

  • Like 1

I am leaving the PT6262 on mine, I think it will do the job I want and help get the early response combined with the 3.2L , OS Valves and custom cams.

Driving me mad waiting for the bloody thing to be finished :(

I hope I do not end up back on this thread for the wrong reasons,haha

The worst mod I did was my crdi diesel engine. I put on the cheap performance chip in, the one that you plug in to the common rail sensor.

All it's is a gay resistor to the fuel injector to increase duration !! Fuel flooding.

Yes it did give me more power:)

No it doesn't save fuel

No its not safer

Yes I did give bouncing revs when driving with it for a few months and could not idle straight :angry:

yes more soot :unsure:

On a hot summers day car struggled to hit 100km/h :blink:

Time to unplug it !!!

I think I got off lucky. No damage yet:D

Just a story that comes to mind ...

Bought coilovers for my Bora. Read that when you go 50+ mm lower than stock, the sway bar will hit the control arms.

Bought a new front sway bar to avoid that problem.

Went to central coast to put the coilovers in at a mates place, undid all the front suspension and dropped the struts out but couldn't get the sway bar out no matter what we did...

SO, we decided to drop the subframe as it was the only way in, this included detaching the steering box. Got the sway bar out.

Putting the new Whiteline bar in, it wouldn't fit anything. Even if I got it sitting in kind-of the right position, none of the bolts or links would connect.

At this stage its 5:30pm and we're almost out of light on a Sunday on a job that should have taken 3 - 4hrs tops.

We gave up well after dark and wheeled the car out onto the road for a towie, none of the steering was connected yet.

Got a train home, called Pedders the next day to get it towed and put back to stock.... Which they did and I got the train up to get it.

Seems we had the FWD sway bar, not the AWD one.

And .... as a kicker .... The swaybar rubbing problem is only a problem on the FWD's. We didn't need to change swaybars at all, let alone drop the subframe and steering.

:(

cheap fart cannon on my R31 Exec, with auto gearbox. Got it for nothing, thought it would be fun to get it welded on and I was young and dopey

Drove it home, got a massive headache from the insane drone, took it back and got a resonator welded on, took it around the block... drove back into the muffler shop and got them to rip the whole thing out again, it just sounded like a hot vindaloo aftermath

Never again

  • Like 1

bought a soarer in sydney, handled a bit funny, in went solid diff bushes, new control arms and subframe pineapples.

Not sure how, we found massive rust where the rear subframe bolts onto the car, decided to wreck the car and part it out. What a good way to spend money.

  • Like 1

Just a story that comes to mind ...

Bought coilovers for my Bora. Read that when you go 50+ mm lower than stock, the sway bar will hit the control arms.

Bought a new front sway bar to avoid that problem.

Went to central coast to put the coilovers in at a mates place, undid all the front suspension and dropped the struts out but couldn't get the sway bar out no matter what we did...

SO, we decided to drop the subframe as it was the only way in, this included detaching the steering box. Got the sway bar out.

Putting the new Whiteline bar in, it wouldn't fit anything. Even if I got it sitting in kind-of the right position, none of the bolts or links would connect.

At this stage its 5:30pm and we're almost out of light on a Sunday on a job that should have taken 3 - 4hrs tops.

We gave up well after dark and wheeled the car out onto the road for a towie, none of the steering was connected yet.

Got a train home, called Pedders the next day to get it towed and put back to stock.... Which they did and I got the train up to get it.

Seems we had the FWD sway bar, not the AWD one.

And .... as a kicker .... The swaybar rubbing problem is only a problem on the FWD's. We didn't need to change swaybars at all, let alone drop the subframe and steering.

:(

that would be funny, if it was funny :)

Bloody cars,LOL

  • Like 1

WELL HERE WE GO....

Bought GTR

After 3 months Motor went Bang, cracking pistons, shattering valves, it did a really good job.

Fully rebuilt engine, decided to leave standard turbos because yolo (just for the run in stage, kesh was low)

On the way home from Full rebuild running the engine in and not boosting it i spat exhaust wheel of one of my turbos out my exhaust.

Got new turbos

AFM died on the way home.

finished run in

TPS died on the dyno

Fixed TPS

Split a rad hose

Fixed hose

ran for a while

Lost half my oil

Fixed everything again all is running better than ever!!!

until.

Got shit fuel two weeks ago and was misfiring on 14psi...

Cracked the shits, Haltech, no AFM, and E85

what will go next?

#GTRlife

Well the answer came.

Overheated, suspect shrunk piston (possibly from when i dropped teh oil)

Engine out, and lets find out

#GTRlife

First night I owned my first GTR I hit 2nd pretty hard and snapped my drive shaft. :(

Limped the car home and had to tell my wife what had happened and .. ahem .. *how* it had happened.

  • Like 2

Which chip was it, cause I'm looking for one for my Rodeo

A cheap one of eBay cost me about 150$ and they promised the world.

DP chip is different coz they override the ecu with their own program but still the map they use is copy n paste into the chip that's been test on one car. It could be ok for one car then other a disaster. Not all engine are identical some have bad casts other good n make a big difference in tuning would you just copy and paste a map for your skyline. And hoping the your car has the same specs.

I personally would get it on the dyno n do it properly the 1st time and then it's unique to your car.

Btw do research on it dp chip

My mates a Toyota mechanic and he said the dp chip f**ks the engine hard up..... valves start melting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...