Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine is getting its first run this weekend... Interesting your comment about the block, what's the theory behind that?

How did she go Simon?

Supposedly less force/twisting (smoother engagement) put through the block, with a standard diff this would be amplified with increased power.

Got covers back from coating

DSC04129.JPG

DSC04132.JPG

DSC04148.JPG

DSC04138.JPG

DSC04135.JPG

DSC04140.JPG

DSC04141.JPG

DSC04147.JPG

DSC04153.JPG

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

any progress?

After 4 months of waiting for a new N1 block from Nissan (Japan) we finally told them to forget it and have sourced locally

Block should be in our hands next week

Crank etc has now been balanced, linished, crack tested etc

Not many items left to source - mainly just a pile of Haltech gear, coil packs & harness, set of Kelford cams/springs, head gasket, ARP head studs

Will get some updates happening soon

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...