Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, ErinH said:

This is mine, had it for a little over a year now. Who'd have thought how much of a headache the older evos are! Gotta replace the gearbox in this one soon

Nice!

A mate of mine has a 6 and another a 10. The 10 sees a lot of track and all he ever does is fill up the tank, which makes (not so) secretly wish I had bought an Evo instead of a GTT. But I'm sure the grass is always greener...

6 hours ago, Hadouken said:

Correct.

I've got a breakdown of the difference between the 2 here

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/378971-The-Build-Of-The-Beast

I had a quick read. Looks interesting man. I saw you were looking to get the car tuned haha, noticed some misguided info on that thread on evo's having weak rods. this was only true on the evo 7 where it spits out a rod at 220awkw, That being said my evo 7 is at 250awkw with 470nm of torque stock turbo stock motor and still going strong :P Luck of the draw when it comes to 7s. 9s on the other hand, they go strong, well above 300awkw. 

A few guys i know run a bp71 turbo with e85 on stock evo 8s and 9s. A BP71 turbo + e85 gets you to 330awkw pretty easily and safely on a 8 or 9. Ported stock 9 turbo + e85 can get you close to 300awkw, with the added responsiveness of the mivec it will be killer. Low 11 second car. This is all on a stock long block, no forging. 

Ooo also forgot to mention the JDM 9 ecu supports flat foot shifting, launch control and anti-lag, so if you have the jdm 9 you might notice the antilag setup on the exhaust manifold :P 

Edited by Deza3000

A bloke I work with has an evo x. Was pushing close to 300 awkw on e85 on standard setup. It ended up throwing a rod. So, even the 4B11 does have rod issues at high torque/hp. In saying all that, he used to drive it like it was stolen. To wrap this up, evo's are bloody amazing but just like everything there is some limits that need to be worked around. I have heard of guys limiting torque to reduce the strain on the rods.

  • Like 1

Oh yea i agree, depending on how you drive it and the life its had it will make it weaker. Was your mates evo X a DSG? If so id assume those rapid shifts might incur some torque load on the motor considering the car is never off boost. The way the turbo comes on boost and the how wild the tune is can also determine the longevity of the motor, hence why bp71 is a popular choice (as well as fp's). That being said, lots of R&D has gone into making 300awkw reliable on stock block evos. Lots of forums in uk and us on people running 400+whp on their evos, some even running 500whp - though this is surley going to reduce engine life. 

http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/391588-hp-estimate-what-will-stock-9-block-hold-safely.html

But yea you're right, it might be all in the tune, as you said limiting torque to prevent rod failure. 

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...
On 22/04/2022 at 10:49 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Don't drive it too much, will be $100k soon

Lol.

Needs paint.

Tried selling recently, kept getting offers for 25k 

Had 35k as price.

Similar with good paint were 45k.

Paint is approx 10k.

So, I figured, 45-10=35.

Apparently not.

People kept saying 35-10 for paint, so 25.

We will see what happens down the track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...