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So to add another view:

Used PFC $800

New Haltech $1800

Dirty 30 + pistons + rods and hone $2k

Hypothetical, if you can do all the work yourself bar the hone.

5hp for the haltech (if that) Vs 15% tq min for the RB30

It's not about the extra hp, it's the features and how much nicer it drives

It's like comparing a 500hp HQ and a 500hp VF commodore I know which one I'd rather drive every day

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So to add another view:

Used PFC $800

New Haltech $1800

Dirty 30 + pistons + rods and hone $2k

Hypothetical, if you can do all the work yourself bar the hone.

5hp for the haltech (if that) Vs 15% tq min for the RB30

Andrew Hawkins R32 gained 20+ awkw just from changing to a haltech. And as previously said its not just about peak power it allows closer and more accurate reading of things like knock which means you can add more timing and boost. It also has much better drivability on the road.

Having said all of this you'll never know the difference until you actually try it. I love my haltech and I'd never go back

So to add another view:

Used PFC $800

New Haltech $1800

Dirty 30 + pistons + rods and hone $2k

Hypothetical, if you can do all the work yourself bar the hone.

5hp for the haltech (if that) Vs 15% tq min for the RB30

This is what scares me when I think about the money I have just spent on new turbo, manifold and now ECU to come

just doing the maths on the changeover from pfc to haltech, lot of coin

$3k for supply fit and tune ecu for flex fuel

walbro e85 pump supply/fit $400

flex sensor supply/fit $470

external 4bar map sensor supply/fit $250

E85 fuel & flush $200

optional:

oil pressure sensor supply/fit $330

just doing the maths on the changeover from pfc to haltech, lot of coin

$3k for supply fit and tune ecu for flex fuel

walbro e85 pump supply/fit $400

flex sensor supply/fit $470

external 4bar map sensor supply/fit $250

E85 fuel & flush $200

optional:

oil pressure sensor supply/fit $330

Agreed, this was my quote:

Haltech Platinum Pro ECU (rrp is $1995)

Installation of Haltech $125

S&F E85 Sensor and Haltech I/O12 expander module (required to get the sensor to talk to the Platinum Pro) $1095 fitted

3 Port boost solenoid, supply and wire up to haltech and setup $350

Tune Haltech on 98 octane $800 (normally $1000)

Tune Haltech on e85 $800 (normally $1000)

$5,165 including tune....wtf

Quote is from a major brisbane tuning company

6C859AB6-5CA1-436B-AA65-873DBAD76007_zps

Without crank trigger

31EDDFD0-69B7-4BD8-8267-31B5B0438C21_zps

With crank trigger.

I can't remember now if the without crank trigger was done on the FC or the Link G4, it's been a few years since I put that on. Either way, that timing variation with the timing taken from the CAS is woeful at best.

Both graphs taken from my own car.

Yep it's not good. This is the issue with a newer/faster ECU mating to old tech/speed of the CAS however.

Using like for like (PFC/CAS), PFC isn't actually seeing said variation... So you aren't actually having a problem with timing.

Andrew Hawkins R32 gained 20+ awkw just from changing to a haltech. And as previously said its not just about peak power it allows closer and more accurate reading of things like knock which means you can add more timing and boost. It also has much better drivability on the road.

Having said all of this you'll never know the difference until you actually try it. I love my haltech and I'd never go back

There is no peak to be gained.

As much about dyno variance and a tuner putting in a bit more time than anything else.

To answer your original question, outright power wont change, tuned exactly the same peak power and tq is governed by engine spec, condition etc.

Everything before peak power the difference can be minimal to 20hp in certain areas (although very rare). The newer ecu's have some compensation tables which help with drivability. 5Hp is noticeable to most in off boost power

Then it comes down to features, pay more you get more. If you hardly use them, your paying for wank factor. If you compete with your car and have a dog box or better, launch and flat change will be worth it. On a street car you will eat syncros if used often. So start going to the gym now so you can do a gearbox R/R by yourself.

The only time more map resolution is of benefit is when you have something funky going on- more common on NA engines with harmonics. The director of a large ECU company told me many years ago that they can do 100x100, but its just time entering zones repeatedly and at a starting price of $120 per hour for tuning it will add up.

On the street (and forums or even friends too) there is a lot of "you should" this and that and in a perfect world where money/time, car off the road is no object, sure! For this reason, anyone who asks about my car, its stock with an exhaust and im happy with it, I don't have to listen to their BS or questions.

If it was me, I would use the PFC and go from there. Why? Because I know guys who can map one from initialize to done in less then an hour which includes a lot of drivability and economy stuff. Sit it overnight for cold start and its done. Then go from there

Best post in this thread.

For me the deciding factor comes down to the need (or not) of auxiliary/extra inputs. AUX for things things like a E85 flex-fuel tune and so on. If you don't plan on that, then there is not a lot of benefit to spending $1500+ on the change over.

New ECU & inputs etc - $1800 - $2200

Tuning - $600+

Minus resale of PFC - $600

Leaves around $1500-$1800 depending. IF you wanted E85/Flex (or things like launch control, oil temp/pressure ECU cut out), it is total no brainer - change the ECU 100%.

We all had the powerfc and that was the cause, even piggaz who got brand new nismo afms had the *cough* no dry solder there

Interestingly my PFC Pro never had that issue.
My original PFC did, but it was once every 3-4 months (and I drove daily). Hell my current car, 18 months old, has more coughing/shit bugs

Interestingly my PFC Pro never had that issue.

My original PFC did, but it was once every 3-4 months (and I drove daily). Hell my current car, 18 months old, has more coughing/shit bugs

same here, running PFC Pro at the moment, never had any hiccup

Andrew Hawkins R32 gained 20+ awkw just from changing to a haltech. And as previously said its not just about peak power it allows closer and more accurate reading of things like knock which means you can add more timing and boost. It also has much better drivability on the road.

Having said all of this you'll never know the difference until you actually try it. I love my haltech and I'd never go back

There is no peak to be gained.

As much about dyno variance and a tuner putting in a bit more time than anything else.

Cmon man, Andrew Hawkins.

Yep it's not good. This is the issue with a newer/faster ECU mating to old tech/speed of the CAS however.

Using like for like (PFC/CAS), PFC isn't actually seeing said variation... So you aren't actually having a problem with timing.

I wouldn't be so sure with that, man. Terry had huge timing issues on his blue R34 GTR (PFC) years ago.

I may be wrong but I'm sure my 34 with PFC has Z32 afm and 2 map sensors? I know 1 sensor is used for the boost gauge but why would my PFC be seeing both afm and map?

Seeing it and using it are two different things. It may be used for boost control but not for fuel and ignition.

The factory R34 ECU uses AFM for steady-state and MAP for transient throttle.

It's not about the extra hp, it's the features and how much nicer it drives

The nicer it drives on partial throttle is from the extra power and trims the later ecus have. Point being, dollar for dollar if you can do everything yourself the long block option shits all over a going to a haltech from a pfc, way more off boost torque and power and pretty much 1000rpm less boost threshold.

Andrew Hawkins R32 gained 20+ awkw just from changing to a haltech. And as previously said its not just about peak power it allows closer and more accurate reading of things like knock which means you can add more timing and boost. It also has much better drivability on the road.

Having said all of this you'll never know the difference until you actually try it. I love my haltech and I'd never go back

So many variables, like mentioned and in addition

the willingness of one tuner to push it harder

and another being more conservative.

If he used the same tuner and dyno something had to be wrong with it

mechanically or electronically.

Its common for people to go from a factory ECU to a pfc and gain 15kw minimum, are you suggesting that going from a factory ECU to a haltech with no other changes nets 35kw? Ludicrous

Full power is dictated by the engine spec, condition and state of tune. In this day and age and even for the past 10 years 99% of aftermarket ECU's will run engines to their full power potential.

I do actually know what the difference is, while I haven't used a haltech, I have gone from stock ecu, to power fc, back to stock but flashed. Granted it wasn't on a GTR but the results are still indicative. and FYI there wasn't a lot of difference between the M800 and flashed stock ecu in terms of drivability.

Don't get me wrong, a better ECU is nice, but for a lot of people there are not the number 1 priority if they already have a PFC

That would be like having a garrett GT series turbo, then upgrading to an EFR because they can spool a little earlier.

Not the best analogy, ok it would be like going from a strong single plate which is rated to hold more tq then what you have and upgrading to a nismo twin plate because it drives nicer and can hold a bit more tq. But at a cost of 3x of what you currently have, which is holding up fine.

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