Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good luck at the drags tonight. Hope you've practised those launches. Whats always worked well for me is working out what revs you need to take off without bog or too much wheel spin and then feeding (riding) the clutch to create boost, then launch that bitch and hope you got it all right. It's a bit of a balancing act but works well when your on street tyres. For example in my car I hold the revs at about 3 to 3.5k, start feeding that clutch in and as soon as I start hearing spool I steadily keep releasing the clutch while mashing the throttle to the floor. Usually results in a slingshot take off with a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st. If you get it wrong you will either bog or fry the tyres. You can also use the handbrake to help u remain stationary, if u do that though, just don't forget to release it once your going.

Wow and this is why I'm petrified of compression testing my motor. But like you said lucky it was only one of the springs. That lifter free stuff does the trick hey????

As for why no driving for 6 months, you are correct. Something I'm not proud of either but you live and learn. Was in the national park going a fraction too fast at the start of Op saturation early last year.

Yeah, I'm glad it was only that not the rings!

It sucks to think about it, but at least you will know haha

Yeah Lifter-Free was good :)

So clean. Your engine bay is clean as hell along with the carbon. :wub:

Thanks GL, I tryyyyyy to keep it clean but there is still some stuff I'm unhappy with :(

Hey man, ever figure out what was causing that leak in the footwell?

I think its the windscreen seal or door seals because I sealed what I thought it was and it still leaked :(

Do you have a similar problem?

Good luck at the drags tonight. Hope you've practised those launches. Whats always worked well for me is working out what revs you need to take off without bog or too much wheel spin and then feeding (riding) the clutch to create boost, then launch that bitch and hope you got it all right. It's a bit of a balancing act but works well when your on street tyres. For example in my car I hold the revs at about 3 to 3.5k, start feeding that clutch in and as soon as I start hearing spool I steadily keep releasing the clutch while mashing the throttle to the floor. Usually results in a slingshot take off with a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st. If you get it wrong you will either bog or fry the tyres. You can also use the handbrake to help u remain stationary, if u do that though, just don't forget to release it once your going.

I WISH i read this earlier :(

Had a terrible night, crap times the whole night except my last run which was still slow but I slipped the clutch and it launched pretty good just not enough RPM at launch I think. I've done the handbrake thing before but its a pain in the ass lol I've forgotten countless times.

I kept frying the tires when I was launching at the same RPM I did on the Sunday meet. One of the officials mentioned the track is not Preppd like it was for the Sunday meet and normal races because its just a regular street meet which is kind of annoying.

Yeah, I'm glad it was only that not the rings!

It sucks to think about it, but at least you will know haha

Yeah Lifter-Free was good :)

I had what sounded like a stuck lifter, changed the oil and it came good but I wish I knew about this stuff :O

Thanks all for reading through the drama of my 33 :P

  • Like 1

Yep, taking off at the drag strip on street tyres is a pain. If you want to get a really good time, you really need to run proper tyres like mt's or hoosier and ideally on a 15" or 16" rim. That way you have some flex in the walls of the tyre. Soft rear shocks go a long way too. I still think you should easily get into the 12's on street rubber and possibly 11's on drag tyres

Yep, taking off at the drag strip on street tyres is a pain. If you want to get a really good time, you really need to run proper tyres like mt's or hoosier and ideally on a 15" or 16" rim. That way you have some flex in the walls of the tyre. Soft rear shocks go a long way too. I still think you should easily get into the 12's on street rubber and possibly 11's on drag tyres

Hmm thats what I struggle with, I have no idea what size Hoosier or MTs to get because I don't know what will fit under there.. Any ideas?

I was talking to Adam from JEM and he recommended Federal RSR-Rs or the MT ET Streets so I'll try one or the other

Hmm thats what I struggle with, I have no idea what size Hoosier or MTs to get because I don't know what will fit under there.. Any ideas?

I was talking to Adam from JEM and he recommended Federal RSR-Rs or the MT ET Streets so I'll try one or the other

I have no idea. Maybe start a new thread about tyres for drag. I don't think rsr's will be that great for drag either. Et streets should do OK. I would think you would need to get some cheap ford 15 or 16 inch steel wheels that fit and throw the widest drag tyre that fits on. Again I'm no expert, best to get info from guys that have been there and done that in a r33.

I ran et streets on my old 180sx and it was a slingshot

Wouldn't even spin 1st gear jumping on the throttle and when you smash gears just chirped

This was at 260kw and on street tyres it would spin coming on to boost in second and if you were game would fry thirds if the clutch gripped

I have no idea. Maybe start a new thread about tyres for drag. I don't think rsr's will be that great for drag either. Et streets should do OK. I would think you would need to get some cheap ford 15 or 16 inch steel wheels that fit and throw the widest drag tyre that fits on. Again I'm no expert, best to get info from guys that have been there and done that in a r33.

I found a few threads but I think I need to look into it more. Sounds like a great start tho.

Why are you not fond of the RSR-Rs?

I ran et streets on my old 180sx and it was a slingshot

Wouldn't even spin 1st gear jumping on the throttle and when you smash gears just chirped

This was at 260kw and on street tyres it would spin coming on to boost in second and if you were game would fry thirds if the clutch gripped

That's great news! Thank you for sharing your experience. I'll try and grab some but I have NFI about the whole radial v non radial which makes no sense to me lol.

Small update:

New radiator arrived last week - I didn't realise how small the factory rad was till I looked at it the other day

830DC977-F8EC-4C70-AF7A-C898D6345050_zps

2D499374-3260-486F-83D9-AC8995394F06_zps

93C40050-F411-4FE2-AB86-5E6D5EB85354_zps

587DDBBA-4DC7-4287-9C2A-A51021E13E5E_zps

Nismo cap

C96F05A6-7DD4-40D1-A8ED-0817D68BDA6E_zps

Unfortunately I couldn't do any of the work this weekend because JustJap had no thermostats and It was too late for me to order from Kudos. None the less I ordered the thermostat and a new radiator fan because mine is cracked in a thousand places. More Pics to come next week.

Don't get me wrong about the federal rsrr, its a great tyre especially at its price point. I used to run them on my s15. The thing is they're more of a circuit tyre than drag. To get the absolute best possible time at the drag strip, a proper drag tyre is needed. Just food for thought.

Don't get me wrong about the federal rsrr, its a great tyre especially at its price point. I used to run them on my s15. The thing is they're more of a circuit tyre than drag. To get the absolute best possible time at the drag strip, a proper drag tyre is needed. Just food for thought.

I'm happy to take the advice of someone with experience :)

Car is out of action for a few weeks at least now. I'm going to buy a new car this week as a daily too.

Clutch dropped to the floor tonight on the way out, pedal wouldn't return so I limped home in second gear and bled the clutch again. We managed to get some feel back but the fork seems to be stuck halfway causing the slave to overextend to work. I've asked on the SAU FB page and its likely that the fork is snapped or something is wrong with the throw out bearing assembly so I'll be keeping it off the road for a few weeks till I get motivated to fix it.

The best words from a good friend that cheered me up were "You don't drive a heavily modified car and expect it to be perfect 100% of the time".

Stay tuned for pictures of the new car!

  • 3 weeks later...

Car is definitely out of action for now. It looks like the clutch fork popped off the bearing carrier or something of the sort. Fork looks crooked and when you look in the box it looks out of place.

99118AC2-8FC5-4E57-8160-04ADD0311FD5_zps

D32D10C5-AAA6-4AA2-9E74-B375C0842FA8_zps

17D5BED9-AF4A-448F-82B9-9ACB0963EF50_zps

E65D6415-DCB5-44D3-9A86-8382EEF42295_zps

As mentioned, I bought a new car - N15 Pulsar Automagic as the daily with 124,000 kms on it for dirt cheap so that will do for now.

Mine is the green one

593700FA-9E81-4CE8-BDE6-CFF578F7F944_zps

The plan of attack is to order parts below and take it to my friends Dad's workshop to get done because I don't have the patience to do this all over again.

*All parts are Genuine and New*

- Clutch fork

- Slave Cylinder (Lucky number 3)

- Throwout carrier

- Throwout carrier retaining spring

- Clutch fork retaining spring

- New redline fluid

- Throwout bearing

- Boot that goes over the fork

I'm seriously praying that nothing is wrong with the clutch assembly because I'll be pi$$ed. It wasn't cheap when I bought it all.

It looks like possibly a cracked clutch fork or pivot ball. I hope so, that would be an easy fix. P.s pulsar needs a turbo[emoji3]

Hoping its not the pivot, That's a new Nismo one :O

HAHAHAHA! Pulsar is supposed to be the comfortable daily so I don't keep smashing up the kms on the Skyline aaaaaannnddd it's so uncomfortable to drive daily. I won't lie, a turbo would make it fun, it's gutless at the moment!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Car went into the workshop today and I have some obligatory photos to share. I took a bunch while it was at the shop but I won't upload them because it show's where it's at (will post after I get it back).

Tow truck was a bit late but we made it before the workshop closes. I gave them a big list of stuff to do including

Check starter motor as it sounded noisy as hell (i.e overrun on startup)

Check PS system as its also super noisy (was leaking though)

Change throwout bearing and assembly

Change clutch fork

Check whole clutch assembly including bolts for flywheel

Change slave and adjust

Change tailshaft bearing

Most of the parts I provided and they were fine with that (most shops hate that stuff) but it's all genuine Nissan gear. I asked if the shop was OK with that and they said they have no problem (it's a mates dad's workshop). I even offered them my contact details for parts and they said it's fine for me to order them.

C6AC44BC-AF38-43C6-AA0C-9DF518608389_zps

3833B8E0-0F60-4420-8514-C20E5AE972A3_zps

48CF016A-D9AF-4878-ADFA-5A70F2568F66_zps

Tow truck driver was super nice and careful with the car. He even freaked out when the bumper JUST touched the tray, I said don't worry about it.

Also plastidipped the centre garnish on my pulsar and the badges because I could.

D453686F-98B4-4234-9025-7B8983FBD836_zps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...