Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

There doesn't seem to be a great deal of information how best to mount an external gate off the exhaust housing.

I recently finished building a steam pipe manifold for my SR and deliberately didn't include an external gate as it makes the most sense to me to evenly bleed the exhaust gases from the highest pressure point, which would be the exhaust housing, plus i wanted to be a little different.

It doesn't seem to be all that common to mount the external gate off the housing, i am curious to how far i around on the housing i should weld it onto and also which way to face the pipe. A lot of the housing's i have seen face the pipe in the same direction to gas flow of the housing, but shouldnt the gate be mounted at a 90 so that it isnt the easiest path for the gases to travel?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451509-external-gate-in-exhaust-housing/
Share on other sites

the most optimal angle to not impede 'flow' i've attached a snipet from turbosmarts installation guide.

How have you managed to mount the gate like that on a standard low mount?

I have got a mate who is going to weld onto the cast housing but he only wants to weld on a 90" off the housing to ensure its strong and to allow the tig to get into there, which is going to make it hard to not impede the flow some what.

The other issue is my manifold is top mount, ideally to limit impeding flow i could come somewhere off where the housing starts to curl around after the straight to the flange, but i might be limited by space.

Mine is mounted off the exhaust housing. It probably could be better angled but I didnt really have the room. All good, seems to work fine:

20131024_173749_zps01749055.jpg

So you have ran this and have no problems? Because it seems to go in an opposite direction to the flow?

The logic is simple. When the wastegate is shut all of the exhaust will go through the turbo. When the wastgate opens if the path is not direct much (or too much) of the exhaust will continue to flow through the turbo leading to overboosting.

Here's how mine goes:

post-49463-0-52442300-1418017474_thumb.jpg

The optimal mounting is to improve gas flow, which increases top end power. Simply venting the pressure at a 90 may hold boost well enough, but the gains won't be as great in my experience.

This setup I do works very well, but I spend a lot of time die grinding the inside to get a smooth path into the gate. External gate housings are obviously preferred.

post-63525-0-05491300-1418045082_thumb.jpg

Thanks for all of the pictures and ideas guys,

It seems since it is a pressure system the angle doesn't greatly affect the ability to hold or vent boost, but isn't giving the best performance, but realistically my biggest issue is going to be space.

Obviously the shorter the runner to the waste gate the better, but should that be a priority over angle?

If you were running a GT30 internal, then switched to an external with optimal flow, power difference atw will be less then 10hp

The internals are at 90 deg, which isn't great but will really only overboost on big engines with a small (relative) turbo/housing, the Xr6t is an example.

  • Like 1

Well the TD06 10cm was good for around 50kw more. Smaller housings will react better to external gates as opposed to the 1.06 Garrett internal, and such a simple way to get the results of a good top mount.

I thought making 430kw from the stock rb25 manifold was proof enough... Don't mistake boost control with the gate's ability to flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...