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I'm on the Mid-north coast NSW. I don't have any pics of it on my pc now, but will get to it. She needs a bit of work looks-wise (surface cancer is starting to get to it a bit) but it's still got original paint so I can't complain. Cheers.

Hey Guys,

This is a great thread, My dad will be really happy to know there is a groing source of info for modifying the 210 coupe.

ITS MY GREEN!

w00t w00t!

Very very nice, and i am very jealous, wish mine looked that good.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

Two things;

First is for Jimmy - I have a couple of decent bumper bar ends for the rear - if you are still looking for some let me know.

The second is I am looking to convert my C210 from auto to manual. Any suggestions? I am starting to think that buying a whole parts car may be cheaper than buying a box and related parts individually. I know there are quite a few boxes that bolt straight up to the L24, but are not sure what the pros and cons of each one are. Also does the pedal box from other models (Z, C, K) bolt up - or will I need to source another skyline pedal box?

Cheers all.

Drew

I just did this on my C110. I bought a whole car for the swap... and I do not regret it, even if I spent a LOT more than just the price of the car in the end. New clutch, machine flywheel, new bushes and bearings, degreaser (lots of), gearbox oil, new master and slave cyls, couple of jacks and jackstands...... it all adds up. Anyway, having a parts car also makes it easier for reference of how things go together. As does a service manual. The C210 should be similar enough to the C110 that won't need a new pedal box - just plonk the clutch pedal on the end of the fulcrum shaft. Don't quote me on that though.

Unless you're really hotting the car up I don't see why you'd bother swapping anything other than a C210/C110 (they're the same FS5W71B) 5-speed in... 280ZX box might have nicer ratios though.

Edited by Alfadog

Thanks for the tip. Im bummed that I just missed a new clutch and flywheel on ebay... Ah well, Ill keep on hunting around for something good - car or box. My car isn't exactly worked by the way: just some twin carbies and extractors - hopefully I wont be putting the gearbox under too much strain.

Cheers!

Hey, good to see that there is a hread for the "old girls".

Um yeh im pretty sure i have a c210. It is a 1979 datsun skyline, straight 6 2.4L single carby auto sedan.

Got given to me and my brother as a no your not getting motorbikes here take the skyline. Nothing has been done to it besides a sony cd player and 6 inch speakers in the back with carpet over the back dash.

Once i figure out how to put pictures up i will do it. I have only seen a few 2 doors here in adelaide and a few sedans. but mine seems to be the cleanest i have seen here so far. Not bragging but just IMO.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Ld28 crank in an L28 with a 60 thou over bore will create an L30.

If only it was that simple... it isnt. You need different rods and pistons too.

A friend of mine had a C210 2000GT turbo (the L20 6 with turbo) 4 door , years and years ago.

The report of the C10 in a wreckers. That would be a rare find in Australia. Was it ever confirmed. Probably a C110.

  • 5 months later...

Hi guys its been a while since anyone has posted up here but its good to see the old girls are still around and that there are people to love them. Just to let you all know i have a C210 2 door in the for sale section (sorry for jacking the thread) but it would be better going to one of you guys than the wrecker.

Hey guys,

As I'm getting stuck into my C210 build, I went to the trouble of getting some manuals.

I now have

C210 Chassis and Body workshop manual

L24 and L26 Engine workshop manual

C210 Complete parts list with part numbers - every single nut, bolt and washer.

Cheers

Bobby

Let me know if you need anything from the.

  • 4 months later...

i have a c210 which is realy clean in yellow

wheels

exaugst

electronic ignition

suspention

allarm

cd player 4 speekers

and heaps more

i have got all the factory parts to turn it bact to stock

how much should i be asking for to sell it

  • 6 months later...

Any West Aussies out there with C210's and is the guy from Kalgoorlie still reading posts. If so I'm the other guy who had the burnt orange C210 in Kalgoorlie.Mine had 280z motor and triple 45 webbers.Do you still have your coupe in Kal. I recently picked up a $300 coupe and am in the process of putting in a 260z and 2'' jag s.u's. What's the verdict with the auto's in the c210, can they handle a bit power?If Iknew how to attach photos I'd put some up. When I'm finished doing it up[not pristine] just making it tidy enough to keep the laws eyes of it, I'll then take it back and show the car yard. They couldn't believe anyone would actually want to buy it. They had $600 on it but I convinced them that it had 2 lazy cylinders and told me to take it for $300, registered, new radiator and 4 new tyres.I was happy tho I've put plenty of time ,money and elbow grease into since. I've painted the engine bay black and may continue this theme around the whole car, it won't be flash as I'm doing it myself with no prior experience :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

Anyway if anyone wants to reply or no more please do. Ricky

  • 6 months later...

The first Skyline I fell for was the Prince. At the time I had a Cortina which served me very well.

Some time in the late 70s early 80s I remember reading in the SMH about a "Skyline Alpine".

It was because of this article that I bought my RMR30 Ti Hatch, complete with ski racks and snow chains.

Does anyone have a Skyline Alpine and what were, or are, they?

Be interesting to here cause I saw one today.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
a bit of an update on our front suspension.. i found out alot more about it today.. oh and i want to atleast sound a little more intelligent than my previous posts (doh! i have learnt a lot since then!, i am still learning though!)

when we first got the car pretty much the whole suspension, steering and crossmember where of C210 origin. It does bolt directly up.. but that isn't necessarily a good thing :P

when we picked the car up it had a massive amount of negative camber (around 30 degrees!). Nick (the previous owner, nixcars on this forum) gave us the original c110 crossmember too and recommended that we put it back in to fix the camber

we visually compared most of the control arms, and ended up replacing these two rods (sorry, don't know there names, they are both forward of the crossmember)

This seems to have visually straightened the wheels, though obviously (if you look at our site :P ) it hasn't been professionally aligned yet. I need to still double check the steering arm lengths though, but the crossmembers seem to be identical.

Brake wise we are running C210 height adjustable coil overs (one of the reasons we bought the car!), with Honda accord rotors (will measure the diametre) and 4 spot landcruiser callipers, picture here

hope this clears some things up, sorry it took a while to clarify

We will be selling this brake setup soon if any one is interested, as we need to move to something a "little" bigger :P . It will only fit a c210 strut though, not the c110 (not sure of the difference as we never had one!),

Hope this clears some things up for those of you interested

Kent

Thanks for all the good info, I recently picked up a couple '2' C-210s for 500$. And am tryin to put alittle extra power for the workhorse, as my Z32 is too expensive to run as daily driver.

Also I have read that while puttin the stoker LD28 crank into the L24 is good, the conecting rods are a little short for a high reving engine. The L14 rods are longer however freaking rare. Especially as you need 6.

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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