Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do you plan to run the 180 or 120 TW?

Sleeka spares have the NS2r 265-35R18 180 treadwear on special for $150 each. very cheap for what they are.

Edited by GH05T
14 hours ago, GH05T said:

just bought 4 from sleeka @ $130 each, fkin cheap man

give me some feedback once you've taken them for a spin, I'm getting some suspension components fitted at the same time I do my tyres so will be a little while off giving mine a run...

20 minutes ago, GH05T said:

Same boat. I need to do brakes, swaybars and probably new coilovers too. Then i can drive fast again emoji14.png

it's a never ending cycle this modifying car business :P

although after this it'll become more maintenance / restoring for me...

  • 2 weeks later...

finally got my ac sorted, swapped out the ac headunit, apparently there are more than ons size of front fascia, had to do a swapover from my old unit.

 

also used some plastic polish on the surround, brought back that satin shine :P

 

20170207_174939.jpg

  • Like 3

Did you know if you hold down the "Lower Temperature" button for 5 seconds it goes into "FC" mode which is basically about 16 degrees..

Try it and enjoy :) Also highly recommend getting the condenser fan wired up to turn on as soon as you turn on A/C.

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, GRKGTR said:

Did you know if you hold down the "Lower Temperature" button for 5 seconds it goes into "FC" mode which is basically about 16 degrees..

Try it and enjoy :) Also highly recommend getting the condenser fan wired up to turn on as soon as you turn on A/C.

You can also hold the "High Temperature" button for 5 seconds and that goes into "FH" (Fast Hot) mode. I used to say "Fkin Cold" or Fkin Hot" lol.

  • Like 1

huh did not know that.

also when i have the ac unit out i replaced the shitty bulbs for leds for button illumination, jesus f**king christ thats a frustrating job. the little f**kers just do not come out. they un twist and go loose, but dont just fall out. i have to destroy each and everyone one to get them out.   sooo not a fiddely kinda person.

Yeah, you just need to change the temp to 18 or 32 then hold the temp button for 5 seconds. It'll go into "FC" or "FH" mode. It's handy in summer when you want to freeze or in the winter when you need to heat the cabin up fast. If you watch the servo motor operate under the dash, you'll see just how far it moves either way.

I found it easier to remove the front face held in by 3 screws to remove those pesky globes. Massive pain in the ass though.

Edited by jmknights93
  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...

lol.

cmon though, brand new v8 TD LC79 isnt exactly a shitter though, im kinda proud of my new daily :)

 

it had 400km on it when i dunked it up to the bonnet in salt water hahaha

20170723_141718_zpsj3itxmz7.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...