Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's a few more weeks, hopefully it will be sorted when you get it back then plenty of enjoyment ahead.

Daz, it is not the time so much, even though it pisses me off, BUT how hard is it to answer these 3 questions

1. Is the leak fixed

2. Has the tune been completed, please send Dyno Graph or are there problems stopping you from finishing the tune

I do not need a diarised report , I have nothing to pay for , just tell me what has been completed.

  • Like 1

That is the problem, customer service and lack of communication.

There is no doubt these blokes are good at what they do and I understand that some things show up after this type of build. As I have said before, I was not worried as I was sure they would rectify any faults.

I had been through a dragged out build with them and did not expect it to start all over again.

Nothing worse than being totally ignored when you inquire about your car and even worse when the only time they email you is to say you will get a "Diarised Report" Tomorrow, stuff tomorrow! email the answers to the questions, done and I would not be sitting here at 6 in the morning writing this shit.

No doubt this Report will be a drawn out load of double talk to make everything look good for them and that is OK as most BIG companies do similar reports. This is a mob with about 5 workers and 2 owners, not Nissan Motors.

I just want to know what is finished and what is not and why. Then I go away and sulk for an hour and go back to waiting, well until I am ignored again :)

I feel for you mate.

lack of communication is terrible.

hope they at least answer your questions today and dont tiptoe around it.

It is so stupid to cause this type of backlash when it is easier to just "communicate !"

Anyway, enough of this crap, I will post the outcome :)

Have you tried giving them a call? Most of these workshops are pretty terrible on emails, phone is always much better!

Don't I know that :)

When I have called the person to speak to is busy or out, so if I do not get a reply I go back to emails. I know they get them.

They have a bloke sitting in front of the computer all day, he passes the information along and then most of the time when they do not want to answer for whatever reason, it gets ignored. It does your head in after a while, I guess if it did not happen before with the build I would not be so upset, but it did and left a bad taste in my mouth .

I also know they read this thread and would not be happy with me dragging up this shit, well that makes 2 of us, but after a while being ignored who gives a shit :(

:\ it should be the guy behind the desks job to know what's happening with each car....

There is no doubt in my mind that he knows everything that goes on, he is a smart bloke, BUT what he knows is one thing and what he can say is another.

why would you have an office worker and not allow him to sort this shit out before it hits the fan, it is just plain dumb!

I had from 1 to 3 office workers at different times during my business years, BUT I handled all complaints and repairs, I did this to make sure if there was a manufacturing problem I could rectify it before it went any further and caused a bigger problem.

If someone was not happy with one of my products I went to their home personally to sort it out, there was no one else to blame, the $ stops at the top.

So it's been weeks in the shop for tune tidy up, new dump pipe and replace top rad hose?

Thats about it, had a reply so things are looking up and stopped it falling into the toilet .

Want to make your business better, yes ?

I used the " C" word , Communication, Customer Care, Client Consideration, it is so much better for your business, easier and better than pissing them off :)

  • Like 1

Well had the diarised report , it was very comprehensive .

They installed a 3.5" Dump and a 100 cell cat, but it gave no noticeable power gains ?

They also tried 2 different types of cams and found the bottom end similar but the other cams gave more power at the top end and re installed the original cams.

The water leak seems to be OK but I will know more tomorrow after the car had been road driven over the weekend.

If all goes well the car will be on the Dyno tomorrow and I will get a Dyno Graph to compare with the old one.

I am a bit pissed that the new sized dump/cat did not help much

He ran vehicle on dyno at high power and noticed power lower than previous

- Lowered boost and performed full power run

- All OK,

But as long as it is going strong, all good :)

After driving it home I will have a fair idea how it is all working and work out what to do next :/ ??????????????????????????????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...