Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't yet needed/been able to to rev mine past 7000, maybe I'm driving too soft Pete!

Would be interesting, but I doubt it can flow much more air than it currently does at that rpm on a big capacity, hence why dump mod didn't change much?

I use do take MI e to 8.5 or 9k.

whichever the limiter was set at.

went good.

I use do take MI e to 8.5 or 9k.

whichever the limiter was set at.

went good.

Before the build I could hit 10k with not trouble, because I was too slow to grab 2nd the first time I booted it :)

Even when the T78 was changed for the 6262 it was limited at 9.5k and no trouble getting there. I could never stop myself from testing it :/

Maybe there is also some cam adjustment for a bit more grunt as I do not need anymore than 7000rpm.

Can dialing the cams make much difference for response, there might be something left with a bit of tweaking ??

Still not responsive enough?

Shouldve gotten a M3 or C63 AMG with this amount of money.

Limiter a day keeps the doctor away. Gotta make sure its still there

I did not want another car, I like this one!

Dead a long time Mate , might as well do one really stupid thing in your life :)

That's why they limit them, so you can check it out when needed .

Should have got RIPS NZ to build you a 3.2L would still rev to 9000rpm :P

shoulda coulda woulda, but I didn't and what would I do with 9k , thats why I went this way. I did speak to them earlier but I still needed someone to pull it down and put it together and fix it if shit happens

No mate it will all be good, nice looking R that holds the road and goes pretty quick, early :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

Should have got RIPS NZ to build you a 3.2L would still rev to 9000rpm :P

Why?

The bottom end hasn't flung apart. The only possible reasons for the rpm limit are turbo restriction, or ignition issues, or potentially the cam settings.

All a bottom end has to do is stay in one piece, everything else actually makes the power.

  • Like 2

^^^^^^^

If I wanted big power I would have gone bigger bolt ons.

After I do the fuel mods and flex tune I can bump it up if I ever wanted without costing and arm and leg, because I have already spent the arm and leg :whistling:

^^^^^^^

If I wanted big power I would have gone bigger bolt ons.

After I do the fuel mods and flex tune I can bump it up if I ever wanted without costing and arm and leg, because I have already spent the arm and leg :whistling:

We aren't saying you did want big power. We are saying that the other guy is off point by suggesting another builder would have it rev to 9k with the same parts
  • Like 1

We aren't saying you did want big power. We are saying that the other guy is off point by suggesting another builder would have it rev to 9k with the same parts

I understood what you said and even the 2.6 that CRD built that was in my car , was strong and rev it's head off, or your head off.

I believe the 3.2 motor they built me is as good as most.

It seems more blokes want the top end bigger power and I understand why, it is exciting when it kicks in and when you have the revs up.

I thought about doing some Hill climb events once the car was 100% and watched some more hill climb vids this morning, that was the end of that idea, they take it pretty serious and rip! Do they have any geriatric events or do they have a different class for the mug drivers ??

Ummmm not necessarily.

Why not, I guess it is what you think is expensive, poke in a new suitable turbo and maybe different cams dial them in and tune , E85 and away you go. I wish :)

I am not talking a 900 HP car but it should be pretty good

I have better expectations for mine as it is set up now and if it does not meet them I will change whatever.

To get it going set it for 2000rpm. There's your response.

SET WHAT ?, I take it you are joking and pulling my leg ?

If not, Do a Pauline, please explain :/

You know that I know nothing much about modifying cars, only what I have been learning while on SAU. I know more now in 18 months than I ever knew about cars and that is not a lot.

Up until now, I just buy them, drive them, brakes down someone fixes them, it was easy, only had to have the NRMA card with you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...