Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gt-r's Advertised For Sale At Their Lowest Levels.


Recommended Posts

I think most of it has already been mentioned.

At the moment the US is relatively undeveloped as a market, so they're buying the kind of cars that we would generally reject - heavy accident, tampered odometers, rusty etc. Plenty of JDM wood-ducks for the exporters to burn before they start to wise up over there. With the exchange rate taking a dive, cars ex-Aus are looking more and more attractive, but the US would rather buy crap and keep prices landed in the US under $20K there than worry about quality.

The market will start to develop though, and as time goes on, buyers will be looking for clean cars globally, and paying big dollars for them.

It's the same phenomenon that has seen virtually every 240K coupe disappear from Australia, mostly to the UAE.

Most collectible sports cars go through a depreciation cycle, then rise again. In Japan, prices of clean 32s started climbing about 7-8 years ago. Clean series 3 R33s have also been rising for a while, and R34s hit the bottom of their cycle about 5 years ago too.

Australia's cycle is a little longer, so we're only starting to see the rises occurring now (although demand from the US is speeding that process up). If you're buying locally, look for clean late model R33s and clean, genuine km R34s as they're money in the bank as far as I'm concerned.

I'm hoping to send my N1 to the US in 2026, in the hope it will fund my retirement ;)

The Relevance of THIS ^^^

...should echo within the craniums of every Australian who owns a GT-R; and not just a BNR32.

Thank you Kristian for your feedback :yes man:

PS I never noticed how tall you were.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm in the process of trying to find one. I have Troy from Iron Chef looking in Japan. Its been a couple of months now with barely any luck.

I've been looking for a 4.5 with less than 60k and have a fairly decent budget but am getting 1 car a week, if that, and most seem to have really low km (under 20k) and seem to exceed my budget.

I have only considered one car in Aus and that was the gunmetal nismo edition that sold a few weeks.

I'm too impatient for this... I guess the search continues

Oh and if anyone is thinking of selling, please let me know.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the process of trying to find one. I have Troy from Iron Chef looking in Japan. Its been a couple of months now with barely any luck.

I've been looking for a 4.5 with less than 60k and have a fairly decent budget but am getting 1 car a week, if that, and most seem to have really low km (under 20k) and seem to exceed my budget.

I have only considered one car in Aus and that was the gunmetal nismo edition that sold a few weeks.

I'm too impatient for this... I guess the search continues

Oh and if anyone is thinking of selling, please let me know.

There's a guy in WA on FB/gumtree who reckons his is pretty nice... Price is pretty "nice" too. lol.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bentley/cars-vans-utes/1994-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr/1089642050

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont like the climate control relocate.

no holes drilled through speaker mesh is a plus i guess.

edit: still 4 years until that one can go US...

Edited by okooko
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...