Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my r32 gts-t with rb25det got written off last year, got $10k from insurance somehow so I went to the dark side and bought a 2008 BF XR6T for $12.5k, anyway $5k later and it's making this power! This is K.P.Ms "flywheel figure" the real rwkw is about 320rwkw but this shows the curve. 380rwkw is doable on E85 and more boost.

FMIC, 1000cc ID, clutch, fuel pump, 4" dump & cat, custom tune, stock twin 2.25 from cat back, 265x18 rims

It is laggier response wise than the 25det with a 260kw highflow due to the GT35 being pretty big from the factory however full boost and torque at 3k rpm cannot be beat. Sounds awesome and it will make this power on the stock turbo and motor all day long with 200,000 kms on it.

So yeah, if you are thinking about going to the dark side let me tell you it is absolutely worth it for bang for buck! Also having all the creature comforts of a car that is 17 years newer really is nice, electric seats, leather, ABS, airbags, massive interior, cops don't look at it twice either! Around the hills it handles the same as my GTS-T, obviously one the track it isn't going to be as good due to having almost 400kg on the 32.

GFf4WbM.jpg

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456842-xr6-turbo-love/
Share on other sites

"flywheel kilowatts". Why not print it out in HP, then it will seem even bigger. Estimating "flywheel kilowatts" is like measuring your dick at 4" and estimating it up to 6" based on losing a bit between your nuts and your arsehole.

If it was actually on an engine dyno and MEASURED, then that's different.

Having taken the time to bag you though, XR6T is a decent package and easy to make power from given they're only running 4psi standard. I'm glad you're happy with it. But it's a red flag to a bull posting that sort of thing around here :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456842-xr6-turbo-love/#findComment-7538109
Share on other sites

Having taken the time to bag you though, XR6T is a decent package and easy to make power from given they're only running 4psi standard. I'm glad you're happy with it. But it's a red flag to a bull posting that sort of thing around here :)

I do like trolling. Forged internals, 4L and GT35 from the factory makes for about the best value motor you can get. It'll pass a roadworthy inspection every time, I also am far less likely to die when I put it into a tree due to the ABS, airbags and much higher safety rating.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456842-xr6-turbo-love/#findComment-7538118
Share on other sites

ABS wont help you after you have hit a tree

Might help me avoid hitting it though! I tested it out in the wet and it works a treat with the DSC, can stomp on the brakes whilst turning hard and not only will it not lock up, it will still steer fine as well, 4 wheel braking is pretty cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456842-xr6-turbo-love/#findComment-7538124
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...