Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think this topic has been discussed much at all on SAU.

I know a few people on SAU use trickle chargers. This will be a first for me.

I bought myself a Trickle charger from Jaycar, but have been given advice that I need to disconnect the battery from the car so that I don't ruin the Alternator or other electronics if there is a current surge from 240V.

A few questions I have.

1. Owning an R34 GTR, where the battery in the boot, it's not very well ventilated. Are people removing their batteries from the car? Kind of defeats the purpose of a quick solution.

2. The car only gets taken out on weekends. Am i better off simply disconnecting the -ve terminal for the week? Have i wasted my $$$ on the charger?

What other tips do people have when using a Trickle charger?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457967-using-trickle-chargers/
Share on other sites

I do this,

Disconnect +Ve side on the battery and leave it. It has been fine for me for up 6 months.

When I come back from lengthy times away, I put the car on the trickle over night and that is perfect.

With the +ve side disconnected instead of the -ve I don't see how there can be a problem with sending a surge through the car....

Given that there is a 20:1 step-down in the charger (240V input, 12V or so output) there would need to be a huge input voltage surge to damage any car electronics. Do you have a surge arrester in your meter box - a big enough surge to damage anything in the car will also take out most of your house electronics.

I use a 1 amp trickle charger on a motorbike, but I run it off a timer so it's only on for an hour each day. This helps prevent over-charging the battery. Have done this for many years and battery life has been great.

My experience is using a Trickle charger is fine.

In my case If I disconnect the battery the mongoose alarm goes off.

So I leave both terminals connected while charging.

Generally only connect it up if I'm leaving the GTR in situ for over a few weeks.

Given that there is a 20:1 step-down in the charger (240V input, 12V or so output) there would need to be a huge input voltage surge to damage any car electronics. Do you have a surge arrester in your meter box - a big enough surge to damage anything in the car will also take out most of your house electronics.

I use a 1 amp trickle charger on a motorbike, but I run it off a timer so it's only on for an hour each day. This helps prevent over-charging the battery. Have done this for many years and battery life has been great.

Having it on a timer is a brilliant idea. Might give that a go. The charger i got is:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Power-Products-Electrical/Charging/SLA-GEL-Chargers/6V-%26-12V-Heavy-Duty-8A-Car-Battery-Charger-with-Trickle-Charge/p/MB3522

I guess my main issue is that the car is kept in a downstairs garage (unit block) and I don't want to come home to an inferno. I understand that most batteries when on charge can emit gasses, which could cause a fire.

If anyone has seen the battery location on a 34R, it's an enclosed, tight space with a tonne of carpet surrounding metal

The whole idea of trickle charging is to leave the charger on the battery constantly. I don't like charging at high voltage/current with the battery connected in the car, but trickle charging should be fine.

I guess my main issue is that the car is kept in a downstairs garage (unit block) and I don't want to come home to an inferno. I understand that most batteries when on charge can emit gasses, which could cause a fire.

When you are driving the car the alternator is charging the battery, so there should be no difference really

The BNR34 has charging terminals in the front under the fuse box.

The main possible problem is reversing polarity (by accident).

If you're so concerned about surges from lightning strikes just put a surge protector between the trickle charger and the power point the same way you protect your computer.

The BNR34 has charging terminals in the front under the fuse box.

The main possible problem is reversing polarity (by accident).

If you're so concerned about surges from lightning strikes just put a surge protector between the trickle charger and the power point the same way you protect your computer.

Learn something new everyday. Did not know that. Makes it a hell of a lot easier if this is the case

  • Like 1

Learn something new everyday. Did not know that. Makes it a hell of a lot easier if this is the case

Lol, look at the fuse box and you will see a (+) and a (-) each next to a metal tab. Surely you didnt think that if you wanted to jump start your car that they would make you do it in the boot...

Lol, look at the fuse box and you will see a (+) and a (-) each next to a metal tab. Surely you didnt think that if you wanted to jump start your car that they would make you do it in the boot...

ok ok, geez, chill out man.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...