Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Vs Rx-7 Fd3s....comparison? And Which Would You Buy?

BakemonoRicer
 Share

Recommended Posts

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

FD has better balance, infinitely better handling and stock for stock more reliable than shitty RB's

Finding an unmolested example of either is very difficult these days

FD's consistently hosed GTR's in the 12hr races in early 90's. That should give you a clue.

Anfanee Grand Master

Anfanee

Posted
Posted

Rb over a rotor any day.

More grip

350kw on stock motor

Don't have to put 2 stroke in it to stop it burning oil

Better fuel consumption

350kw? are you high? more like 270 MAX. Struggle to hit that on a stock R.

FD has better balance, infinitely better handling and stock for stock more reliable than shitty RB's

Finding an unmolested example of either is very difficult these days

FD's consistently hosed GTR's in the 12hr races in early 90's. That should give you a clue.

I would argue that stock for stock GTR's are much more reliable TBH. Rotors are more touchy than a woman on her period.

Basically with a rotor be ready to rebuild it. They have massive overheating issues that you need to address properly. They have the smallest heat margin i have ever seen. It's something like 10 degrees is the difference between all is well and bang. They can be trouble when trying to push too much power out of them.

In saying that GTR's have issues as well. It all depends under what application you are driving. The oil control comes into play if you want to move them in any way.

So it depends. Do you want to spend thousands fixing cooling issues in the RX7 or thousands fixing oil issues in the GTR.

Both cars will require another $5000 around that ontop of what you spend to buy it at least to make them reliable. This is not taking into account performance upgrades at all, this is the money i would spend to make them daily reliable. Provided the engines are in good condition to start with.

Also FD's are f**king tiny. No space what so ever, many people i know struggle to even fit in them. Trying to get the interior to look nice with the required gauges you need is almost impossible.

FD's do handle really nicely in stock form. You could get one and not have to touch the suspension. GTR's are not tooooo bad. In stock form they will understeer, sway bars will counter this issue.

One of my very good friends has 2001 FD3s RS currently on the boat coming here. It's going straight to Ric Shaw to get intercooler, radiator, and gauges done. He isn't even confident to drive it back to canberra without the radiator and intercooler done. They are that bad.

TL;DR they are both money pits. Don't buy 1 unless you can afford 2.

Apart from that it will be personal opinion. What one do you prefer? Do you want the braap braap of a rotor or the howl of an RB?

just my 2c.

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Basically with a rotor be ready to rebuild it. They have massive overheating issues that you need to address properly. They have the smallest heat margin i have ever seen. It's something like 10 degrees is the difference between all is well and bang. They can be trouble when trying to push too much power out of them.

You talking rotors in general, or FD's in particular? When I had cooling issues, then fan-belt alignment issues I saw my 12A spike over 120 deg lots of times, and it spent a lot of time over 110 deg. Never went Bang, nor did it need a rebuild. Must admit it was getting a bit tired by the time I sold it - I'd spent 5 years rallying it, and god knows how long since it had a rebuild before I bought it (I'd sorted the cooling issues by then, and it ran a comfortable 90 deg no matter what I did to it)

Well maintained rotors are as reliable as anything else on the road. I'm hearing a lot more reliability issues from RB's than I do about injected rotors. Of course bolting a huge turbo and running 800HP out of a rotor is going to make it wear out faster.

Very true comment about personal preference. The RX7 was built from ground up as a sports car. The Skyline is a converted family car (although build quality is admittedly very good - no doubt about that). Different cars for different markets. Personally I'd go a stock FD over a stock GTR but I've always preferred nimble cars to brute strength. I think for dollars spent on mods, an FD would be faster and more reliable.

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

This

Just realised who OP is.

Nothing more than another theoretical discussion point, then.

Ask this same question at OzRotor and see what responses you get

Rotang FTW.

Just as long as you like noise and buying petrol and rebuilding motors.

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

Depends if you like Rb's or Rotors

Also depends what car you like the look of

I will own a RX3 Savana one day.

Been trying to convince my uncle to sell me his, Been sitting in the gararge for the last 15 years with a 20b or 26b from memory

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

FD's consistently hosed GTR's in the 12hr races in early 90's. That should give you a clue.

they also lied about their engine capacity to win races.

they don't go that we'll for the 3.9l engine they are.

Personally, as a stock daily, you don't need to touch the oil system on a gtr.

short blasts are fine, and that's all you'd be doing on the road.

never had a problem with mine.

Not sure about the rx7 as I've never driven one, but would like to one day.

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • Duncan
      Replacing Fuel Pressure Regulator

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • Duncan
      Replacing Fuel Pressure Regulator

      By Duncan · Posted

      lol, probably should have read further!
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...