Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah, it came across that way for sure, but it was a reference to the logical progression to business bank manager from my current role

I'm not moving at the moment as the work life balance is off the chain and it works well with my youngest

my car is working

its time to start making massive changes

This is the same car that always fails, that the other day you advised has been running daily for 6 months, that is now running again?

you are a confusing guy Greg

The same? The only oddity I've ever noticed is that from switching between E85 and 98 it seems to bring up some kind of residue that likes to clog my fuel filter (which is removable and cleanable).

To be honest though, having 400kw at 4500RPM is kind of pointless (cause grip) so really I should be just running 98 all the time cause there's no practical loss of anything in switching between them.

Trying to tune them though you notice quick smart which is the better fuel. That alone makes me want to daily it on E85 tbh, its just a far better fuel, the car is just far, far happier to run on it. Smoother, way less charge temps on intake, etc. I'd personally want to use it when driving hard even if the power increase was 0.

As for winter start being problematic, is an E85 myth. Couple of cranks (literally 2) and good to go.

  • Like 2

I think the cold start 'myth' is more for people that don't use the car every day.. my brothers r33 on e85 was a weekender and just an absolute pig.. now its collecting rust on the side of my parents house with good advan forged rims on it.. (also probably getting rusty)

See it on the XR6's as well, half the people say its fine the other half say it's a bitch to start in the cold.. same shit, different car.

Not really worth it with my boost levels on the v8 so 98 ftw

Once I put some more cash into my falcadore should be good fun :) so over the power it has atm.. except in the wet it's a handful

YOLO, more power time

Edited by UNR33L

Very much depends where the car is stored and the temp you're starting it at

In the carpark beneath apartment complex, mine can be a bitch if it's gone down to 4 degrees overnight - talking 10-12 cranks. Haven't bothered to get the cold start tuned properly. Normal winter day after not having driven for 24 hours is about 2-3 cranks most.

Sitting at 95k Qantas frequent flyer points, almost enough to go LA return or similar :) not bad for 6 months

ANZ FF amex black + business related expenses ftw

Edited by UNR33L

Sitting at 95k Qantas frequent flyer points, almost enough to go LA return or similar :) not bad for 6 months

ANZ FF amex black + business related expenses ftw

Please don't

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...